Paris-Hamburg 2017/18 Métiers d'art
PARIS-HAMBURG 2017/18
MÉTIERS D'ART
漢堡時裝秀
精品
走進高級定製服工坊

Paris-Hamburg 2017/18 Métiers d'art

PARIS-HAMBURG 2017/18
MÉTIERS D'ART

走進高級定製服工坊

每年,卡爾·拉格斐都會創作全新高級工坊系列,向香奈兒精湛的手工藝致敬。

"It's made in an artisan way, in the very best sense of that word, because in artisan there is 'art'. The art of doing things well, an applied art."

Karl Lagerfeld

Montex

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刺綉工坊

Combining traditional know-how skills with a sense of innovation, the artisans of the atelier Montex turn Karl Lagerfeld's sketches into three-dimensional embroideries and use the crochet de Lunéville technique and the hand-guided Cornely machine to create motifs.

Using patterns made by the CHANEL ateliers, the embroiderers draw the designs on tracing paper before transferring them onto the fabric. Strips of Rhodoid are stitched on one by one to compose geometric motifs that bring out the asymmetrical lines of the evening dresses.

對話Aska Yamashita
Montex刺綉工坊藝術總監

對話
Aska Yamashita
藝術總監
Montex刺綉工坊

Aska Yamashita, artistic director of the embroidery specialist atelier Montex, talks about the links between the CHANEL Metiers d’art and the CHANEL studio that enrich each collection.

LESAGE

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刺綉與編織

刺綉工坊的工匠堅守著160年來世代相傳的獨特的手工技藝,為香奈兒的系列作品錦上添花。萊茵石,絲帶,珠子與半寶石營造出錯綜複雜的圖案,幻象,倒影,紋理,光澤與色彩,令每一季香奈兒系列的面料及設計熠熠生輝。香奈兒標志性的斜紋軟呢,同樣出於Lesage的織布工匠之手。精緻絲綫及絲帶編織出各種不同的面料,創新詮釋嘉柏麗•香奈兒的傳承,將卡爾•拉格斐的創意化爲現實。

交錯編織羊毛,天鵝絨絲帶及金銀綫混合織成2017/18 Métiers d'art系列斜紋軟呢面料。方格圖案呼應了時裝秀首次發佈地漢堡的水道與橋梁。從橘色到棕色,輔以零星點綴的藍色,令人聯想到在碼頭堆叠的彩色集裝箱。

Lesage 刺綉工坊還完美呈現了卡爾•拉格斐的富含漢堡航海精神的刺綉設計,用羊毛和馬海毛編織的船索圖案,航海繩結,黑色與銀色的珠子刺綉,令整體造型光彩奪目。

Podcast with Hubert Barrère
artistic director of Lesage

Podcast with Hubert Barrère
artistic director
of Lesage

Lesage刺綉藝術总监Hubert Barrère,講述Lesage這座創建與1958年的工坊,如何將傳統手工藝結合21世紀的創新科技

MASSARO

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鞋履工坊

Massaro鞋履工坊的藝術家將香奈兒的鞋履製成最高品質的作品。製楦工,裁切工,縫製工及整飾工密切合作,共同打造香奈兒的鞋履款式。

Paris-Hamburg高級手工坊系列,在Richelieu鞋款上配以羅緞或漆皮,令這個經典男士鞋款增添女性的柔美風格。高級手工坊系列是各個工坊展現非凡手工藝的舞臺,Desrues服飾珠寶工坊也為鞋履裝飾了蝴蝶結造型的珍珠別針。

對話
Jean-Étienne Prach
Massaro鞋履工坊總裁

對話
Jean-Étienne Prach
Massaro鞋履工坊
總裁

Massaro’s artistic director Jean-Étienne Prach talks about the collective work of the Maisons d’art in the creation of unique designs imagined by the CHANEL studio.

LEMARIÉ

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山茶花及羽飾工坊

The work of Maison Lemarié, feather and flower maker in Paris since 1880, is at the heart of Karl Lagerfeld's designs. The camellia is revisited every season within the flower atelier. Feather work, which requires meticulous craftsmanship, technical skill and ingenuity, offers infinite variations of textures and motifs. The feathers are tinted, refined, curled or gathered to bring volume to the CHANEL dresses and accessories.

For the 2017/18 Métiers d'art collection, hand-painted white feathers were embroidered onto the evening gowns, with contrasting ink suggesting the horizontal stripes of a sailor top.

對話
Christelle Kocher
Lemarié山茶花及羽飾工坊藝術總監

Podcast with
Kristelle Kocher
Artistic director of
Lemarié

Maison Michel’s artistic director Priscilla Royer explains the way she transformed the atelier into a creative lab, powered by their collaborations with the CHANEL studio.

Desrues

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服飾珠寶工坊

Desrues draws on its age-old heritage to develop its techniques, while making use of cutting-edge innovations. Its artisans cast, carve, gild and polish the precious jewels and buttons for CHANEL's collections.

Meticulously chased, the designs of Desrues come in colors and motifs that evoke the collection's maritime theme.

Michel

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製帽工坊

In a dialogue with the collections, Maison Michel creates the hats that accessorize the silhouettes. Boaters, veiled fascinators, caps and beanies revisit the hat repertory in a myriad of variations on the CHANEL style. The milliner keeps more than three thousand oval hat blocks, sculpted from soft limewood to answer Karl Lagerfeld's creativity.

The tweed and wool caps made in the Maison Michel ateliers, embroidered with braiding by Lesage or adorned with chased brooches by Desrues, are collective works of craftsmanship.

對話
Priscilla Royer
Michel製帽工坊藝術總監

對話
Priscilla Royer
Michel製帽工坊
藝術總監

Michel 製帽工坊的藝術總監 Priscilla Royer,解釋她如何在香奈兒創意工作室的支持下,將手工坊改變為一座創新實驗室。

In the sixth chapter of the CHANEL 3.55 podcast, Joana Preiss meets the artistic directors of the CHANEL Métiers d’art ateliers to uncover their exceptional savoir faire skills and how they collaborate with Karl Lagerfeld’s studio.

更多資訊 
2017/18 PARIS-HAMBURG
建議售價。法律聲明 法律聲明

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