Paris-Hamburg 2017/18 Métiers d'art
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"It's made in an artisan way, in the very best sense of that word, because in artisan there is 'art'. The art of doing things well, an applied art."
Combining traditional know-how skills with a sense of innovation, the artisans of the atelier montex turn Karl Lagerfeld's sketches into three-dimensional embroideries and use the crochet de Lunéville technique and the hand-guided Cornely machine to create motifs.
Using patterns made by the CHANEL ateliers, the embroiderers draw the designs on tracing paper before transferring them onto the fabric. Strips of Rhodoid are stitched on one by one to compose geometric motifs that bring out the asymmetrical lines of the evening dresses.
Aska Yamashita, artistic director of the embroidery specialist atelier montex, talks about the links between the CHANEL Metiers d’art and the CHANEL studio that enrich each collection.
Podcast with Hubert Barrère
artistic director of Lesage
Massaro’s artistic director Jean-Étienne Prach talks about the collective work of the Maisons d’art in the creation of unique designs imagined by the CHANEL studio.
The work of Maison Lemarié, feather and flower maker in Paris since 1880, is at the heart of Karl Lagerfeld's designs. The camellia is revisited every season within the flower atelier. Feather work, which requires meticulous craftsmanship, technical skill and ingenuity, offers infinite variations of textures and motifs. The feathers are tinted, refined, curled or gathered to bring volume to the CHANEL dresses and accessories.
For the 2017/18 Métiers d'art collection, hand-painted white feathers were embroidered onto the evening gowns, with contrasting ink suggesting the horizontal stripes of a sailor top.
Artistic director of
Maison Michel’s artistic director Priscilla Royer explains the way she transformed the atelier into a creative lab, powered by their collaborations with the CHANEL studio.
Desrues draws on its age-old heritage to develop its techniques, while making use of cutting-edge innovations. Its artisans cast, carve, gild and polish the precious jewels and buttons for CHANEL's collections.
Meticulously chased, the designs of Desrues come in colors and motifs that evoke the collection's maritime theme.
In a dialogue with the collections, Maison Michel creates the hats that accessorize the silhouettes. Boaters, veiled fascinators, caps and beanies revisit the hat repertory in a myriad of variations on the CHANEL style. The milliner keeps more than three thousand oval hat blocks, sculpted from soft limewood to answer Karl Lagerfeld's creativity.
The tweed and wool caps made in the Maison Michel ateliers, embroidered with braiding by Lesage or adorned with chased brooches by Desrues, are collective works of craftsmanship.
Michel 製帽工坊的藝術總監 Priscilla Royer，解釋她如何在香奈兒創意工作室的支持下，將手工坊改變為一座創新實驗室。
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In the sixth chapter of the CHANEL 3.55 podcast, Joana Preiss meets the artistic directors of the CHANEL Métiers d’art ateliers to uncover their exceptional savoir faire skills and how they collaborate with Karl Lagerfeld’s studio.