Paris-Hamburg 2017/18 Métiers d'art
PARIS-HAMBURG 2017/18
MÉTIERS D'ART
漢堡時裝秀
精品
走進高級定製服工坊

Paris-Hamburg 2017/18 Métiers d'art

PARIS-HAMBURG 2017/18
MÉTIERS D'ART

走進高級定製服工坊

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每年,卡爾·拉格斐都會創作全新高級工坊系列,向香奈兒精湛的手工藝致敬。

"It's made in an artisan way, in the very best sense of that word, because in artisan there is 'art'. The art of doing things well, an applied art."

Karl Lagerfeld

Montex

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刺綉工坊

Combining traditional know-how skills with a sense of innovation, the artisans of the atelier montex turn Karl Lagerfeld's sketches into three-dimensional embroideries and use the crochet de Lunéville technique and the hand-guided Cornely machine to create motifs.

Using patterns made by the CHANEL ateliers, the embroiderers draw the designs on tracing paper before transferring them onto the fabric. Strips of Rhodoid are stitched on one by one to compose geometric motifs that bring out the asymmetrical lines of the evening dresses.

對話Aska Yamashita
Montex刺綉工坊藝術總監

對話
Aska Yamashita
藝術總監
Montex刺綉工坊

Aska Yamashita, artistic director of the embroidery specialist atelier montex, talks about the links between the CHANEL Metiers d’art and the CHANEL studio that enrich each collection.

LESAGE

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刺綉與編織

斜紋軟呢,香奈兒女士從男士服飾藉鑒的面料,已經成爲香奈兒風格的標志性元素。不同種類的織綫賦予它別具特色的獨特外觀。每一季,Lesage 刺綉工坊都以獨具魅力的斜紋軟呢面料,充分演繹卡爾·拉格斐的大膽創新的設計。

2017/18Métiers d'art系列的斜紋軟呢面料由羊毛,天鵝絨絲帶與Lurex金銀紗綫混織而成。面料上的方格圖案呼應時裝秀舉辦地漢堡的縱橫交錯的水道與橋梁。從橘色,棕色到零星點綴的藍色,令人想起城市碼頭堆叠的色彩繽紛的集裝箱。

Podcast with Hubert Barrère
artistic director of Lesage

Podcast with Hubert Barrère
artistic director
of Lesage

Lesage刺綉藝術总监Hubert Barrère,講述Lesage這座創建與1958年的工坊,如何將傳統手工藝結合21世紀的創新科技

MASSARO

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鞋履工坊

Massaro鞋履工坊的藝術家將香奈兒的鞋履製成最高品質的作品。製楦工,裁切工,縫製工及整飾工密切合作,共同打造香奈兒的鞋履款式。

Paris-Hamburg高級手工坊系列,在Richelieu鞋款上配以羅緞或漆皮,令這個經典男士鞋款增添女性的柔美風格。高級手工坊系列是各個工坊展現非凡手工藝的舞臺,Desrues服飾珠寶工坊也為鞋履裝飾了蝴蝶結造型的珍珠別針。

對話
Jean-Étienne Prach
Massaro鞋履工坊總裁

對話
Jean-Étienne Prach
Massaro鞋履工坊
總裁

Massaro’s artistic director Jean-Étienne Prach talks about the collective work of the Maisons d’art in the creation of unique designs imagined by the CHANEL studio.

LEMARIÉ

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Feather-maker
Lemarié

The work of Maison Lemarié, feather and flower maker in Paris since 1880, is at the heart of Karl Lagerfeld's designs. The camellia is revisited every season within the flower atelier. Feather work, which requires meticulous craftsmanship, technical skill and ingenuity, offers infinite variations of textures and motifs. The feathers are tinted, refined, curled or gathered to bring volume to the CHANEL dresses and accessories.

For the 2017/18 Métiers d'art collection, hand-painted white feathers were embroidered onto the evening gowns, with contrasting ink suggesting the horizontal stripes of a sailor top.

對話
Christelle Kocher
Lemarié山茶花及羽飾工坊藝術總監

Podcast with
Kristelle Kocher
Artistic director of
Lemarié

Maison Michel’s artistic director Priscilla Royer explains the way she transformed the atelier into a creative lab, powered by their collaborations with the CHANEL studio.

Desrues

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服飾珠寶工坊

Desrues draws on its age-old heritage to develop its techniques, while making use of cutting-edge innovations. Its artisans cast, carve, gild and polish the precious jewels and buttons for CHANEL's collections.

Meticulously chased, the designs of Desrues come in colors and motifs that evoke the collection's maritime theme.

Michel

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製帽工坊

In a dialogue with the collections, Maison Michel creates the hats that accessorize the silhouettes. Boaters, veiled fascinators, caps and beanies revisit the hat repertory in a myriad of variations on the CHANEL style. The milliner keeps more than three thousand oval hat blocks, sculpted from soft limewood to answer Karl Lagerfeld's creativity.

The tweed and wool caps made in the Maison Michel ateliers, embroidered with braiding by Lesage or adorned with chased brooches by Desrues, are collective works of craftsmanship.

對話
Priscilla Royer
Michel製帽工坊藝術總監

對話
Priscilla Royer
Michel製帽工坊
藝術總監

Michel 製帽工坊的藝術總監 Priscilla Royer,解釋她如何在香奈兒創意工作室的支持下,將手工坊改變為一座創新實驗室。

See the Film

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In the sixth chapter of the CHANEL 3.55 podcast, Joana Preiss meets the artistic directors of the CHANEL Métiers d’art ateliers to uncover their exceptional savoir faire skills and how they collaborate with Karl Lagerfeld’s studio.

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2017/18 PARIS-HAMBURG

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