2018/19秋冬高级定制服系列

2018/19秋冬
高级定制服系列

精湛工艺

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创意工作室

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卡尔·拉格斐的灵感源泉

卡尔·拉格斐的灵感源泉

香奈儿精品部创意总监卡尔·拉格斐,讲述2018/19秋冬高级定制服系列的创作灵感。

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整体造型的点睛之笔

In the lead up to the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture show, model Adut Akech attended the final fitting with Karl Lagerfeld at 31 rue Cambon in Paris.

In the lead up to the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture show, model Adut Akech attended the final fitting with Karl Lagerfeld at 31 rue Cambon in Paris.

鲜明廓形

2018/19秋冬高级定制服系列的拉链设计自成一派风格,纵贯整体廓形,赋予斜纹软呢套装与晚宴裙前所未见的崭新姿态。绣以编结的拉链在外套长袖侧边开衩,展现超长露指手套与真丝或锦缎面料的撞色衬里。连衣裙也采用同样侧边拉链开衩的设计,露出内搭的刺绣迷你半身裙。

2018/19秋冬高级定制服系列的拉链设计自成一派风格,纵贯整体廓形,赋予斜纹软呢套装与晚宴裙前所未见的崭新姿态。绣以编结的拉链在外套长袖侧边开衩,展现超长露指手套与真丝或锦缎面料的撞色衬里。连衣裙也采用同样侧边拉链开衩的设计,露出内搭的刺绣迷你半身裙。

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卡尔·拉格斐眼中的高级定制服

HAUTE COUTURE ACCORDING TO
KARL LAGERFELD

“Haute Couture is an island of dreams and escapism. It is the utmost luxury which transcends fashions and crosses time.” 卡尔•拉格斐这句话,恰如其分地概括了1915年嘉柏丽尔•香奈儿开设她第一家高级定制服精品店以来,品牌最初的使命和特质。高级定制服凝聚珍罕独特的制衣工艺,淋漓尽致地展现设计师的创意巧思与至臻完美的剪裁和细节,在高级手工坊精湛绝伦的手工下,化为无与伦比的作品。饰以满幅刺绣的精美华服,尽显线条、廓形与结构的精确把握。由此,高级定制服得以放飞想象,不受任何限制或约束。这种创意的实现,也离不开极大的耐心与严苛的标准。

“Haute Couture is an island of dreams and escapism. It is the utmost luxury which transcends fashions and crosses time.” 卡尔•拉格斐这句话,恰如其分地概括了1915年嘉柏丽尔•香奈儿开设她第一家高级定制服精品店以来,品牌最初的使命和特质。高级定制服凝聚珍罕独特的制衣工艺,淋漓尽致地展现设计师的创意巧思与至臻完美的剪裁和细节,在高级手工坊精湛绝伦的手工下,化为无与伦比的作品。饰以满幅刺绣的精美华服,尽显线条、廓形与结构的精确把握。由此,高级定制服得以放飞想象,不受任何限制或约束。这种创意的实现,也离不开极大的耐心与严苛的标准。

香奈儿工坊

The Chanel
Ateliers

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高级定制服新娘,
从手绘稿到结婚礼服

First, the sketch is interpreted as a pattern in cotton toile. During this first step of patternmaking on a mannequin, the head seamstress recreates the silhouette in three dimensions, following Karl Lagerfeld's directions, until the silhouette is as the designer imagined it in his sketch. The pattern is then used to create a "toile" of the look. The placements of future embroideries and braided trim take shape. A model tries it on for Karl Lagerfeld's approval. The toile is then reproduced in the fabric of his choice, an almond green wool.

First, the sketch is interpreted as a pattern in cotton toile. During this first step of patternmaking on a mannequin, the head seamstress recreates the silhouette in three dimensions, following Karl Lagerfeld's directions, until the silhouette is as the designer imagined it in his sketch. The pattern is then used to create a "toile" of the look. The placements of future embroideries and braided trim take shape. A model tries it on for Karl Lagerfeld's approval. The toile is then reproduced in the fabric of his choice, an almond green wool.

PROFILE VIEW

The Fall Winter 2018/19 collection's "High Profile" silhouette redefines the Haute Couture look. The CHANEL ateliers created skirts and long dresses in tweed, velvet and chiffon with zippered slits, revealing the leg in elegant profile. Each of these looks opens on the side to reveal a matching mini-skirt, with tweed or sequined braiding extending the line.

The Fall Winter 2018/19 collection's "High Profile" silhouette redefines the Haute Couture look. The CHANEL ateliers created skirts and long dresses in tweed, velvet and chiffon with zippered slits, revealing the leg in elegant profile. Each of these looks opens on the side to reveal a matching mini-skirt, with tweed or sequined braiding extending the line.

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“FLOU”与“TAILORING”工坊

“FLOU”与“TAILORING”工坊

高级定制服作品离不开首席裁缝师的卓越才华与裁缝团队的娴熟技艺。她们凭借灵巧的手指,将卡尔•拉格斐的细致手绘稿化为实物。先以坯布完成初始廓形的制作,每个高级定制服系列60到70个造型还需历经数轮试装环节供卡尔•拉格斐亲自审视,才能开始选择面料并完成刺绣、褶裥、羽饰、编结、珠宝钮扣等制衣工序。无论是连衣裙与衬衫专用的“flou”柔软面料,还是像嘉柏丽尔•香奈儿钟爱的斜纹软呢这种更富结构感的“tailoring”挺廓面料,都必须遵循极为严苛的剪裁标准。由此,“flou”工坊与专门打造诸如香奈儿套装等复杂结构剪裁的 “tailoring”工坊展开一场别开生面的专业对话。

高级定制服作品离不开首席裁缝师的卓越才华与裁缝团队的娴熟技艺。她们凭借灵巧的手指,将卡尔•拉格斐的细致手绘稿化为实物。先以坯布完成初始廓形的制作,每个高级定制服系列60到70个造型还需历经数轮试装环节供卡尔•拉格斐亲自审视,才能开始选择面料并完成刺绣、褶裥、羽饰、编结、珠宝钮扣等制衣工序。无论是连衣裙与衬衫专用的“flou”柔软面料,还是像嘉柏丽尔•香奈儿钟爱的斜纹软呢这种更富结构感的“tailoring”挺廓面料,都必须遵循极为严苛的剪裁标准。由此,“flou”工坊与专门打造诸如香奈儿套装等复杂结构剪裁的 “tailoring”工坊展开一场别开生面的专业对话。

THE MAISONS D'ART

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结婚礼服的高级手工坊工艺

结婚礼服的高级手工坊工艺

Starting from a sample approved by Karl Lagerfeld, olive leaves and braided trim made of rocaille beading in shades of sea green are embroidered by hand. The leaves are then assembled into olive branches with the help of a needle. These embroideries and braiding produced by atelier Montex will embellish the jacket, directly inspired by the attire worn by members of the "Académie Française" at the Institut de France, the dress and its mini-skirt.

The ensemble is then accessorized with a fascinator created by Maison Michel in green wool embroidered by atelier Montex and veiled in sequined tulle. Matching low boots by Massaro, in almond green leather embroidered by atelier Montex, finish the look.

Starting from a sample approved by Karl Lagerfeld, olive leaves and braided trim made of rocaille beading in shades of sea green are embroidered by hand. The leaves are then assembled into olive branches with the help of a needle. These embroideries and braiding produced by atelier Montex will embellish the jacket, directly inspired by the attire worn by members of the "Académie Française" at the Institut de France, the dress and its mini-skirt.

The ensemble is then accessorized with a fascinator created by Maison Michel in green wool embroidered by atelier Montex and veiled in sequined tulle. Matching low boots by Massaro, in almond green leather embroidered by atelier Montex, finish the look.

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羽毛发饰

Michel制帽坊打造的丝绒发饰与系列造型相得益彰,配以Lemarié山茶花及羽饰坊的精美羽饰,尽显高级定制服的迷人魅力。

Michel制帽坊打造的丝绒发饰与系列造型相得益彰,配以Lemarié山茶花及羽饰坊的精美羽饰,尽显高级定制服的迷人魅力。

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高级手工坊与高级定制服

高级手工坊与高级定制服

香奈儿高级手工坊追求至臻细节与严苛标准,不断创新诠释制衣技巧、工艺与灵感,传承并弘扬非凡手工技艺:包括Lemarié山茶花及羽饰坊,Massaro鞋履坊,Lesage刺绣坊,Michel制帽坊,以及Lognon褶饰坊等。

从斜纹软呢、蕾丝与真丝等精致面料,到羽饰、花饰与刺绣乃至手套、珠宝等华美配饰,高级定制服系列将工匠的精湛技艺发挥到极致。

香奈儿高级手工坊追求至臻细节与严苛标准,不断创新诠释制衣技巧、工艺与灵感,传承并弘扬非凡手工技艺:包括Lemarié山茶花及羽饰坊,Massaro鞋履坊,Lesage刺绣坊,Michel制帽坊,以及Lognon褶饰坊等。

从斜纹软呢、蕾丝与真丝等精致面料,到羽饰、花饰与刺绣乃至手套、珠宝等华美配饰,高级定制服系列将工匠的精湛技艺发挥到极致。

2018/19秋冬高级定制服系列

2018/19秋冬
高级定制服系列

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