2022/23 Métiers d’art
In the maisons d’art ateliers
Embroideries, sequins, hats, feathers and passion at work… This episode of the documentary series by Kourtrajmé opens the doors of the Maisons d’art at le19M in Paris/Aubervilliers. To enter inside the new building dedicated to savoir-faire is to witness the virtuoso skills of the Artistic Directors and artisans and their devotion to details as they craft the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection.
The Maisons d’art artistic directors also share their experiences of collaborating with Virginie Viard and presenting a collection in Dakar for the first time.
The Maisons d’art bring together several hundred embroiderers, feather workers, paruriers, goldsmiths, pleaters, shoemakers, hatters and milliners.
Their savoir-faire are at the heart of every collection, especially at the heart of the Métiers d'art collection, highlighting their work since 2002.
embroiderer since 1939
Combining ancestral traditions with contemporary creation, this is the magic of the Montex embroidery atelier. The sophisticated, modern and precious motifs that contribute to magnifying the CHANEL collections are all made using needlework, a Lunéville crochet hook or with the Cornely, a century-old embroidery machine guided by the hand. Montex joined the CHANEL Métiers d’art in 2011.
shoemaker since 1894
From carving the last to sewing the upper to the sole, the shoes by Massaro for CHANEL are entirely handmade, in a perpetual search for elegance and comfort. The collaboration between CHANEL and Massaro began in 1957 with Gabrielle Chanel’s emblematic two-tone shoe and has continued from show to show ever since. Massaro joined the CHANEL Métiers d’art in 2002.
goldsmith since 1950
Precise gestures, meticulous workmanship, accurate proportions, perfecting the object... Robert Goossens’ technical skills evolved between sculpture and goldsmithing, from 1954, when he recreated Byzantine jewellery with Gabrielle Chanel, and later when he designed some of the furniture for her apartment at 31 rue Cambon. The House of Goossens perpetuates the heritage of its founder and today continues to respond to CHANEL’s imagination. Goossens joined the CHANEL Métiers d’art in 2005.
feather worker since 1880 and flower maker
Since the 1960s, CHANEL’s emblematic camellias - like all of Lemarié’s floral ornaments - have been hand assembled petal by petal. In the completely draught-free workshops of le19M, armfuls of feathers are sorted one by one, then combed, curled or smoothed, glued or even woven. A vital partner to CHANEL for its collections, Lemarié also excels in couture sewing and creates remarkable inlays, flounces, smocks and pleats. Lemarié joined the CHANEL Métiers d’art in 1996.
hatter and milliner since 1936
Heir to a savoir-faire established in Paris since the 14TH century, Maison Michel preserves and hands down the secrets of hat making. In its le19M ateliers, caps and brims are handcrafted on 3,000 lime wood blocks before being embellished with braids, flowers, feathers and other adornments by the House milliners. Maison Michel joined the CHANEL Métiers d’art in 1997. Its boaters, veils, caps and berets evolve according to the CHANEL codes and are used to accessorise every collection.
EMBROIDERER SINCE 1924 AND TWEED MAKER
A creative legend which has collaborated with the greatest couturiers, Lesage designs and embroiders sumptuous patterns. Since 1996, it has also been reinventing the tweed so dear to CHANEL, blending woollen yarns with the most unexpected materials. A partner of CHANEL since 1983, Lesage joined the CHANEL Métiers d’art in 2002 and continues this fruitful creative dialogue under the impetus of Virginie Viard. At le19M, Lesage brings together its ateliers, its unique collection of samples and its school where embroiderers pass on the secrets of their savoir-faire to the younger generations.
Les Ateliers Lognon,
pleater since 1853
Knife, flat, sunray, Watteau or peacock... Lognon has more than 3,000 Kraft cardboard pleat moulds that look like origami. Some are over one hundred years old; others have just been created - because the Lognon artisans are constantly looking for new pleats, particularly for the CHANEL Creation Studio. Giving shape and movement to the most varied fabrics is a virtuoso skill, a perfectly synchronised four-handed operation that requires physical strength, extreme meticulousness, experience of touch and expert knowledge in the specificities of the textile. Lognon joined Lemarié and the CHANEL Métiers d’art in 2013.
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