© Anne Combaz
© Anne Combaz
The Ritz Paris is where Karl Lagerfeld has chosen to showcase Paris Cosmopolite, the Métiers d'art 2016/17 collection. In the legendary five-star hotel Gabrielle Chanel herself called home, selected guests were invited at lunchtime, teatime or in the evening to attend a show in a "Café Society" setting, showcasing a collection of Parisian chic in Chanel's customary palette of cream, white, navy, and black, with a range of golds and the occasional splash of bold red. Lily-Rose Depp opened the show, followed by several of Chanel's brand ambassadors and some twenty stars chosen to embody the spirit of a hotel familiar to the world's most elegant women.
The models, coiffed with delicate tiny veils or rose crowns and shod in oxfords with black or white patent leather heels or suede patchwork thigh-length boots, presented some seventy designs that perfectly encapsulate the refinement and savoir-faire of the Métiers d'art studios.
For daywear, the models showed off tweed suits with jackets fitted at the waist and decorated with braid, beadwork, roses, and embroidery. The season's skirts are pencil or wraparound, with the occasional pair of capri pants; the jackets are spencers worn over tunics or boleros over long gowns, in a modern twist on the iconic suit. Trouser suits, tuxedos in tweed or gold sequins, long coats with bias-cut skirts and broad collars, capes, and quilted jackets are presented in a range of tweed, denim, felt, cashmere, and marabou. Knitwear is everywhere, with precious embroidered sweaters, long gilets, never-ending scarves and hats warming up daywear and eveningwear alike.
The night is set to be flamboyant, in tulle, plumetis, and organza; long gowns, sheath dresses, swirling skirts and trouser suits are ornamented with embroidery, satin or velvet bows, crystal mesh, ostrich feathers, and marabou. Embroidered bags and cascading beadwork are occasional sumptuous adornments for the elegant women who are the embodiment of modern Parisian chic.
Françoise Claire Prodhon