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Tuesday, December 9, 2014

PARIS-SALZBURG MÉTIERS D'ART SHOW
BY FRANÇOISE-CLAIRE PRODHON

Chanel presented the 2015 Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg collection in a glorious Rococo setting at the Leopoldskron castle. The show drew inspiration from Austrian history, that of Empress Elisabeth "Sissi," who was admired in her time for her elegance and beauty, as well as traditional attire such as the lederhosen and dirndl which Karl Lagerfeld infused with modern luxury by using an elegant yet sporty color palette. The signature piece of the collection is the four-pocketed jacket inspired by the garments that Gabrielle Chanel would have seen elevator operators wear at the Mittersill hotel during her stays in Austria. This further inspired the collection's silhouettes of boxy jackets paired with wide-cut trousers featuring contrasting tuxedo stripes, calling to mind a structured, uniform-like look.

Flared jackets, capes and maxi-length coats reveal a pleat at the back that echo the traditional loden coat while their leather trimmings, gold embroidery, feathers and flower appliqués evoke the Austro-Hungarian period. Knits are punctuated with Alpine flora while Austria's famous lederhosen are paired with leather breeches and also reimagined as handbags. A rich palette presented the iconic colors of white, red, navy and black enhanced with hues like forest green, khaki green, dove gray and brown. Sophisticated yet sporty, the collection was intentionally contemporary. Karl Lagerfeld explores Austrian style, showcasing its refinement through the savoir-faire of the Chanel ateliers. Embroidery, feathers and pleats are crafted with painstaking delicacy to give this collection a romantic edge. Tweed, leather and cashmere partnered with loden and felt, and these materials blended with satin, faille, taffeta and lace lend the collection a fresh, youthful vibe.

The models walked in moccasins decorated with edelweiss, ankle-strap clogs and thigh-high lace-up boots, while their heads were graced with feather-topped hats and ear muff-like headphones styled to look like coiled Heidi braids. The collection's jewelry creations celebrate all things Alpine with cable car, cuckoo clock and edelweiss motifs. Black and white silhouettes often adorned with flower embroideries dominate the collection's evening looks. Bodices, ruffs and pleats soften structured dresses, which are finished off with patent leather boots for an edgy style.

Françoise Claire Prodhon

© Benoit Peverelli

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