CHANEL NEWS

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THE MÉTIERS D’ART 2019/20
SHOW AS SEEN BY SUSIE LAU

“The ABC of CHANEL has always provided a plentifulness of codes and so it continues with Virginie Viard’s 2019/20 Métiers d’art collection. Together with the friend of the House and artistic collaborator on the décor Sofia Coppola, they took it back to 31 rue Cambon – recreating the emblematic Parisian address for an audience of the now and the present. Inside the lofty Grand Palais, an intimate atmosphere greeted the guests as Gabrielle Chanel’s private apartment was truthfully reimagined thanks to the detail-orientated scenography. The set was bathed in the warm hues of the familiar quilted couch, the glow of gilded mirrors, bouquets of wheat and the glint of Chinese Coromandel screens. The purpose of this mise en scène was to recall Mademoiselle’s beloved symbols that would find their way unexpectedly into a collection that celebrates the ateliers of Lesage, Lemarié, Goossens, Montex, Desrues, Lognon, Causse, Maison Michel and Massaro to their fullest capacity. After all, Virginie Viard began her life at CHANEL being in charge of embroideries for Haute Couture, working closely with Lesage, and so it is that the journey comes full circle.

As the chandeliers were slowly lowered onto the stage, models descended down a recreation of the iconic mirrored staircase, reflecting and refracting a collection that was about connecting craft with the reality of a modern wardrobe.

Fine bouclé coats en noir that would have come in handy on this chilly Parisian night were made ornate with chiffon belts of embroidered wheat, chains and ribbons. The tiniest of Lesage-embroidered chains in metallic thread intertwined with chain jewellery blended the boundaries of where a garment and bijoux begin and end. You might have missed the glimpses of degradé feathers peeking from a diaphanous white quilted jacket, but in person and at the Lemarié atelier, it was beautiful to watch them being placed in a tessellated pattern. The height of decoration could be seen in the golden sequinned wheat sheafs on a delicate black tulle cape and a champagne floral lace dress, made three-dimensional together with the lashings of layered costume jewellery. Subtlety is beautiful in Virginie Viard’s eyes and better showcases the intricate skills of these embroiderers, feather and flower makers.

Moreover it’s that insouciant ease that has come to define the Artistic Director’s take on CHANEL. How else to explain a fitted sequinned jumpsuit that looks like a stretch knit? Or the sunset ombré palette that brings its own frivolity in the world of precious skilled hands. Virginie Viard describes herself as the ‘child of Coco and Karl’. It’s fair to say that this first woman at the helm since Gabrielle Chanel is leaving her defining mark with a welcome feminine sensibility seeping into the House and into our heads.”

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Backstage Sfilata
Métiers d’art 2019/20

Le spighe di grano ricamate di paillettes, le camelie come scolpite sui tessuti e la doppia C impreziosita con fiori neri…sono alcuni dei dettagli della collezione Métiers d’art Paris — 31 rue Cambon 2019/20.

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Il Film Della
Sfilata Métiers d’art 2019/20

Tutti i look della collezione ‘Paris — 31 Rue Cambon’ di Virginie Viard e dei Métiers d’art CHANEL, presentata al Grand Palais di Parigi.

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© Olivier Saillant

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© Olivier Saillant

31 Rue Cambon:
Elegante Decoro Della
Sfilata Métiers d’art

Virginie Viard ha ricreato lo spirito del 31 di rue Cambon di Parigi per presentare la sua collezione Métiers d’art 2019/20. L'emblematica sede, cuore dell'universo creativo di CHANEL, è stato riprodotto sotto la cupola del Grand Palais, trasformata per l'occasione in uno spazio senza tempo.

Prima di scoprire la collezione creata da Virginie Viard, gli ospiti hanno avuto l'opportunità di soffermarsi in una riproduzione dell'appartamento di Mademoiselle Chanel. Era in questo intimo spazio barocco, ricco di ricordi, libri e oggetti preziosi, che Gabrielle Chanel amava rifugiarsi alla ricerca d'ispirazione e nuovi stimoli creativi. Gli ospiti si sono accomodati in una ricostruzione dei salotti del 31 di rue Cambon, che ospitavano le prime sfilate CHANEL. Le modelle hanno fatto il loro ingresso in questo spazio esclusivo percorrendo la leggendaria scala dagli specchi Art Deco e i gradini beige bordati di bianco. Un decoro estremamente raffinato per una collezione che evidenzia i codici e l'allure CHANEL.

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Le Prime Immagini
Métiers d’art 2019/20

Un'anteprima della collezione Métiers d’art Paris – 31 rue Cambon 2019/20 insieme ad Alma Jodorowsky.
 
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Dietro Le Quinte Con
Virginie Viard E Montex

Dietro le quinte con Virginie Viard, Direttore Artistico della Maison CHANEL. Il dialogo creativo con Aska Yamashita, Direttore Artistico dell'atelier del ricamo Montex, prima della sfilata Métiers d’art 2019/20 che si svolgerà al Grand Palais di Parigi, il prossimo 4 dicembre.

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Dietro Le Quinte Con
Virginie Viard E Lesage

Dietro le quinte con Virginie Viard, Direttore Artistico della Maison CHANEL. Il dialogo creativo con Hubert Barrère, Direttore Artistico dell'artigiano del ricamo Lesage, prima della sfilata Métiers d’art 2019/20 che si svolgerà al Grand Palais di Parigi, il prossimo 4 dicembre.

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