CHANEL NEWS

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THE FALL-WINTER 2019/20
HAUTE COUTURE SHOW
AS SEEN BY FASHION WRITER TIZIANA CARDINI

“The love of books runs like a fil rouge throughout the House of CHANEL, its history underlined by a cultivated esprit, an appreciation for knowledge and a sentiment for the finesse of haute artistic expression. Mademoiselle Chanel’s revolutionary approach to fashion was nurtured by her love of elegant words and by her passion for the enthralling magic of poetry, which makes the imagination soar and vibrate, opening new landscapes of possibilities and exploration.

For her solo Haute Couture debut, Virginie Viard paid a touching yet breathtaking homage to the beating heart of Mademoiselle’s legacy, transforming the Grand Palais into a rendition of her private library, a blown-up, monumental replica of the one lining the walls in her Parisian apartment at 31 rue Cambon. Yet, despite the magnificence of the round-shaped decor, the atmosphere at the show felt welcoming, enveloping, immersive and soothing, as only the reading of a good book can be. And how Karl Lagerfeld would’ve loved it, his immense appetite for knowledge barely placated by the thousands of tomes lovingly cocooned in his own staggering bibliothèque.

In the CHANEL lineage of book lovers, Viard has now inscribed her name, as if reconnecting the dots of a genealogy of artistic talents.

Such splendid, metaphorical set felt like the perfect shrine for the Haute Couture collection, whose calm purity of lines resonated with the echo of the clarity of thought gracing good writers and gifted raconteurs. Looks had the fluidity and ease of a sophisticated turn of phrase, outlined with a sensuous 1930s allure yet filtered through a modern attitude, further highlighted by the models’ relaxed, leisurely pace — hands thrust into pockets, as if taking their time to wander in the meditative space.

The sharp, exacting eye of Coco Chanel and her flair for elegant seduction seemed to naturally translate into the fluid, slender silhouettes favoured by Viard, the finesse of the savoir-faire of the Haute Couture ateliers and CHANEL’s Métiers d’art only enhancing the nonchalant perfection of their allure. They exuded an appealing sense of cool and modernity, very much aligned with Mademoiselle’s penchant for sophisticated ease, its timeless appeal still so relevant today.

How beautiful and chic and comfortable the girls looked in their slender floor-sweeping tweed coatdresses, soft and lithe as robes; in the high-waisted pants paired with abbreviated or slim-fitted versions of the signature CHANEL jacket; in the seductive evening dresses, concocted by the incomparable maîtrise of the flou ateliers. Walking with calm grace wearing flats, they were the epitome of modern, effortless, luxurious chic. Mademoiselle, with her formidable, implacable eye, would have certainly approved.”

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FANNED COLLARS

Gathered or pleated high white collars appear as if sculpted, adding length to the silhouettes and echoing the clean lines of the Fall-Winter 2019/20 Haute Couture collection.

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PLEATS AND FOLDS

The CHANEL Haute Couture ateliers use a variety of exceptional techniques to build multiple types of pleats and folds. Monochromatic silhouettes feature a combination of tiered knife pleats, organ-pleat flounces and sunray pleats. Folding produces diaphanous reliefs and undulating volumes in an orangey chiffon negligee and in emerald green or fuchsia pink georgette sheath dresses.

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METALLIC LACE

Textured lacework is appliquéd on the full length of dresses using silver lamé thread in floral patterns, the metallic effect illuminating a fuchsia pink flounced design. Hand-painted flower petals on green tulle resemble delicately chased motifs, their contours enhanced by the lace.

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ABITI DA SERA

Gli abiti da sera mettono in luce il savoir-faire CHANEL nella Haute Couture, dall'impeccabile caduta del tessuto fino alla precisione dei dettagli. Lunghi abiti a tubino neri, in velluto drappeggiato, in organza e raso, adornati da un fiocco annodato o arricchiti da una cintura, si svelano in una nuvola di piume o una cascata di pieghe.

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BOLERO CON COLLETTI PLISSÉ

Le giacche a maniche a sbuffo tagliate a bolero, ricamate con paillettes, presentano colletti bianchi pieghettati chiari e trasparenti. Lo sguardo evoca un libro aperto, in linea con l'ispirazione letteraria della collezione.

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BOMBER HAUTE COUTURE

Strettamente attillati in vita, le giacche di tweed rivelano un allure moderno:
con le loro spalle e maniche a sbuffo ricordano lo spirito rilassato della
collezione. Punteggiati di motivi a rombi o zigzag, sono caratterizzati da bottoni
nei toni della carta velina e di altre carte da stampa.

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SAVOIR-FAIRE
HAUTE COUTURE
AUTUNNO-INVERNO 2019/20

La collezione Autunno-Inverno 2019/20 di Virginie Viard rivela il costante rinnovamento della creatività e l'esclusivo savoir-faire degli atelier Haute Couture e dei Métiers d’art CHANEL.

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VOLUMI FLUTTUANTI

La leggerezza, fil rouge della collezione Haute Couture Autunno-Inverno 2019/20, si riflette nella scelta dei tessuti - georgette plissé, chiffon a strati, organza drappeggiata - così come negli ampi volumi, evidenziati da un cintura o da un fiocco annodato. Gli effetti di trasparenza accentuano questa impressione di fluidità.

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