© Quentin de Ladelune
HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION
The quays of the Seine, its bouquinistes and the cupola of the Institut de France provided a Parisian backdrop to the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture show.
Every new Haute Couture collection highlights the collective work of the CHANEL ateliers and its Maisons d'art (embroiderers, feather-workers, glovers, bootmakers). Their exceptional savoir faire skills bring Karl Lagerfeld's creations to life.
The touchstone of the season was a line structured by zippers with a braided trim that ran along the house's iconic tweed suits and evening dresses, splitting slim sleeves with contrasting linings over long, fingerless leather gloves from Causse or skirts and dresses revealing embroidered mini-skirts.
Wearing low heeled cuffed ankle boots by Massaro, this Parisienne coiffed with a Maison Michel velvet headpiece adorned with feathers by Lemarié, cultivates audacity and elegance. Trompe l'oeil dresses, long coats and jackets paired with pleated skirts appeared in a palette of pale gray, anthracite, black, and shades of ocean and midnight blue evoking the colors of the French capital. Tweed, flannel, velvet, crêpe, lace, taffeta, chiffon and silk radzimir were enriched with crystal, bead and sequined embroideries, an embroidery work by Lesage or atelier montex.
Evening brought together structured lines and precious details. Plays of volume and transparency and the contrast of richly embellished bodices with pared down skirts and hems make for a lively silhouette. Fabrics (chiffon, silk georgette, tulle, velvet, taffeta) further elevate the beauty of the CHANEL ateliers' workmanship. There were bustiers paired with bubble skirts, sequined jackets, a top trimmed in feathers over a long, woven bubble skirt; a little black velvet dress and a short, silver peignoir; and a black velvet kimono, its lining embroidered with multicolored flowers. The bride wore pale green leaf-embroidered woolen redingote-style jacket, a reference to the attire worn by members of the French Academy that neatly sums up the spirit of this collection.