CHANEL NEWS

high-profile-silhouette

HIGH PROFILE SILHOUETTE

Zippers are a statement feature of the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture collection, slashing through the silhouettes and transforming the look of tweed suits and evening gowns. Embroidered with braid, they run down jacket sleeves to reveal extra-long fingerless gloves and contrasting linings in silk or brocade. Dresses are made to the same design, with slits up the side revealing embroidered mini-skirts underneath.

variations-on-a-neckline

VARIATIONS ON A NECKLINE

Karl Lagerfeld designed a series of neckline variations for the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture collection. There are high collars reminiscent of the ceremonial dress worn by the Institute of France’s academicians; and Victorian lace collars paired with puff sleeves, echoing the fashions worn by Parisian women. Tab collars, jabots, and bow collars structure the silhouette, while wide, feather-embroidered collars falling over the shoulders create a softer line.

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THE BRIDE WORE GREEN

Embroidered with green and gold olive branches on black wool, the celebrated uniform donned by members of the Académie française served as an inspiration for the show’s closing look. Its embellishments, the attributes of a learned institution for men and women, here disperse softly over the pale green wool of a redingote-style jacket. Combined with the straight, sober lines of a bridal gown of almost geometric elegance, they strike a subtle balance between sophistication, the richness of materials and purity of form.

In imagining a bride in white who might also wear a green attire, Karl Lagerfeld offers a modern take on the uniform worn by the "immortals" — members of a learned society that included the late Simone Veil, who wore an outfit designed by Karl Lagerfeld at her own official induction into the circle. Worn with greater freedom than that of male counterparts, the suit for women lends itself to more ample variations of shape and style.

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