CHANEL NEWS

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© Anne Combaz

LOS ATELIERS EN EL GRAND PALAIS

Todo comienza aquí: damos forma a las ideas y a lo exquisito. Los ateliers de Alta Costura de Chanel es un espacio funcional y depurado, de tonos neutros. Bajo los dedos de las costureras, el diseño se convierte en materia, volumen y después en look.

El decorado de este desfile Alta Costura 2016/17 consagra la creación: de la idea al vestido, de las premisas a la conclusión. Bajo la nave del Grand Palais, reina un espacio octogonal. Los invitados, que están instalados en el centro, miran hacia el exterior donde se encuentran los talleres de las costureras como trasladados de la Rue Cambon, con alfileres, patrones, rollos de tela y algunas fotos. Las modelos recorren el atelier y el espectáculo se acerca a las bambalinas. Cada costurera se implica en su meticulosa obra, hasta la llegada de las modelos que captan la atención por su paso firme.

De esta forma, las creaciones se presentan muy cerca de aquellas que les dieron forma: las costureras, ofreciendo así una superposición y una profundidad de campo inédita. El primer ingrediente de la costura sigue siendo el gesto firme y preciso de aquellas artistas discretas - esta vez, al descubierto.

Angelo Cirimele

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Fotos © Anne Combaz / Foto de Vanessa Paradis © Alice Moitié

LOS INVITADOS

Desfile Alta Costura Otoño-Invierno 2016/17.

Grand Palais, París

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© Stéphane Feugère

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© Stéphane Feugère

CAROLINE DE MAIGRET
CHANEL AMBASSADRESS

Parisian chic icon, Caroline de Maigret, has become a Chanel spokesperson and ambassadress. Model, music producer and writer, Caroline de Maigret embodies the spirit of Chanel with her strong values.

She met Karl Lagerfeld in the nineties and walked for Chanel for the first time for the Spring-Summer 1999 Ready-to-Wear show at the Opéra Bastille.
Since then, Caroline de Maigret is one of the closest personalities to Chanel and collaborates on numerous projects for the House. She was one of the celebrities chosen by Karl Lagerfeld for his book and photography exhibition The Little Black Jacket. Caroline de Maigret walks or is seated front row at fashion shows and often attends events in France or abroad, most recently Beijing for the Paris in Rome fashion show replica and Cuba for the Cruise runway show.

Caroline de Maigret has written a new chapter of her history with the House by becoming an ambassadress and spokesperson.

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© Sketch by Karl Lagerfeld for the invitation to the Fall-Winter 2016/17 Haute Couture show.

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© Sketch by Karl Lagerfeld for the invitation to the Fall-Winter 2016/17 Haute Couture show.

IMMERSION IN THE ATELIERS
RUE CAMBON

When you enter the ateliers, you accept to go beyond the reign of brands and images into a place of humility. At first everything seems silent, but this is quickly punctuated by the delicate sounds of breathing and the occasional sigh, or the sound of a tool being laid down, picked up, handled. And the gentle rustle of fabrics – tulles or satin – nearly a murmur.

Each gesture defies time and patience. And although the seamstresses each appear isolated and concentrating on their work, this is a collective effort, like a stage production, to bring the sketch to life. But Haute Couture is also an adventure into unknown territory, exploring different materials; discovering them intuitively, with the hands and the eyes, to give birth to a silhouette, to shapes. The materials are tamed and led in a dance until they finally fall perfectly.

This is the challenge: to take the lines of a sketch and transform them into a tour de force, with a myriad of invisible details.

Angelo Cirimele

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© Anne Combaz

the-cape

© Anne Combaz

THE CAPE

For the Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d'Art collection, Karl Lagerfeld reinvents the round Berthe collar, worn as a cape over dresses and coats.

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