Spring-Summer 2009 Haute Couture
The last Chanel Haute Couture collection is like a new beginning: “A white page,” says Karl Lagerfeld, “a linear and timeless graphic interpretation. It’s like a starting point for the story of this new era, for which all the details still need to be written. That is why I chose paper as the theme for the couture collection this season.” The strong connection between Karl Lagerfeld and this theme gives this collection its intensity, “It’s also the fabric that I prefer most… I love paper! Everything begins on paper. Without paper I would be lost!”
This collection is minimal and extremely sophisticated. All of the luxurious details, from the embroidery to the fabric, are more suggested than overt. “It’s the new modesty” according to Karl Lagerfeld. These pure, graphic silhouettes often combine two elements: a short top and a straight skirt, both highlighted by lightness and fluidity. The skirts have discrete slits. The removable cap sleeves conceal the shoulders and allow for freedom of movement.
This monochrome collection is first and foremost a “game of lines and shapes,” continues the designer. Underneath the geometry and purity of the cuts, it’s the floral explosion of the embroidery and the minute details that discretely color this collection. The floral theme is found in the white roses and daisies, with embroidered flowers and petals from the ateliers of Lemarié and Lesage. It is also the inspiration for the sumptuous hairpieces that the Japanese artist Katsuya Kamo created for the collection. “There is something similar between a flower petal and a sheet of paper” says Karl Lagerfeld.