Alta Costura Otoño-Invierno 2018/19

ALTA COSTURA
OTOÑO-INVIERNO 2018/19

SAVOIR-FAIRE

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EL ESTUDIO

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LA INSPIRACIÓN DE KARL LAGERFELD

LA INSPIRACIÓN DE
KARL LAGERFELD

Karl Lagerfeld, the artistic director of the House, discusses the inspiration

behind his Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture collection.

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PERFECTING THE FINISHED LOOK

In the lead up to the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture show, model Adut Akech attended the final fitting with Karl Lagerfeld at 31 rue Cambon in Paris.

In the lead up to the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture show, model Adut Akech attended the final fitting with Karl Lagerfeld at 31 rue Cambon in Paris.

HIGH PROFILE SILHOUETTES

Zippers are a statement feature of the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture collection, slashing through the silhouettes and transforming the look of tweed suits and evening gowns. Embroidered with braid, they run down jacket sleeves to reveal extra-long fingerless gloves and contrasting linings in silk or brocade. Dresses are made to the same design, with slits up the side revealing embroidered mini-skirts underneath.

Zippers are a statement feature of the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture collection, slashing through the silhouettes and transforming the look of tweed suits and evening gowns. Embroidered with braid, they run down jacket sleeves to reveal extra-long fingerless gloves and contrasting linings in silk or brocade. Dresses are made to the same design, with slits up the side revealing embroidered mini-skirts underneath.

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HAUTE COUTURE ACCORDING TO KARL LAGERFELD

HAUTE COUTURE ACCORDING TO
KARL LAGERFELD

“Haute Couture is an island of dreams and escapism. It is the utmost luxury which transcends fashions and crosses time.” Esta reflexión de Karl Lagerfeld representa la principal vocación de CHANEL, cuando en 1915, Gabrielle Chanel abrió su primera Maison de Couture. La Alta Costura, de un savoir-faire único, encuentra la esencia de la visión de un creador, la perfección del corte y los detalles sublimados por el trabajo de las Maisons d'Art que aportan cada una sus savoir-faire específicos. Una precisión de la línea, del diseño, de la estructura, representada por las creaciones únicas, en ocasiones completamente bordadas. De esta forma, la Alta Costura libera cualquier idea, sin límites y sin obligaciones. Una creatividad que está ligada con la paciencia y la exigencia.

“Haute Couture is an island of dreams and escapism. It is the utmost luxury which transcends fashions and crosses time.” Esta reflexión de Karl Lagerfeld representa la principal vocación de CHANEL, cuando en 1915, Gabrielle Chanel abrió su primera Maison de Couture. La Alta Costura, de un savoir-faire único, encuentra la esencia de la visión de un creador, la perfección del corte y los detalles sublimados por el trabajo de las Maisons d'Art que aportan cada una sus savoir-faire específicos. Una precisión de la línea, del diseño, de la estructura, representada por las creaciones únicas, en ocasiones completamente bordadas. De esta forma, la Alta Costura libera cualquier idea, sin límites y sin obligaciones. Una creatividad que está ligada con la paciencia y la exigencia.

EN LOS TALLERES CHANEL

The Chanel
Ateliers

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THE HAUTE COUTURE BRIDE,
FROM SKETCH TO GOWN

First, the sketch is interpreted as a pattern in cotton toile. During this first step of patternmaking on a mannequin, the head seamstress recreates the silhouette in three dimensions, following Karl Lagerfeld's directions, until the silhouette is as the designer imagined it in his sketch. The pattern is then used to create a "toile" of the look. The placements of future embroideries and braided trim take shape. A model tries it on for Karl Lagerfeld's approval. The toile is then reproduced in the fabric of his choice, an almond green wool.

First, the sketch is interpreted as a pattern in cotton toile. During this first step of patternmaking on a mannequin, the head seamstress recreates the silhouette in three dimensions, following Karl Lagerfeld's directions, until the silhouette is as the designer imagined it in his sketch. The pattern is then used to create a "toile" of the look. The placements of future embroideries and braided trim take shape. A model tries it on for Karl Lagerfeld's approval. The toile is then reproduced in the fabric of his choice, an almond green wool.

PROFILE VIEW

The Fall Winter 2018/19 collection's "High Profile" silhouette redefines the Haute Couture look. The CHANEL ateliers created skirts and long dresses in tweed, velvet and chiffon with zippered slits, revealing the leg in elegant profile. Each of these looks opens on the side to reveal a matching mini-skirt, with tweed or sequined braiding extending the line.

The Fall Winter 2018/19 collection's "High Profile" silhouette redefines the Haute Couture look. The CHANEL ateliers created skirts and long dresses in tweed, velvet and chiffon with zippered slits, revealing the leg in elegant profile. Each of these looks opens on the side to reveal a matching mini-skirt, with tweed or sequined braiding extending the line.

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THE FLOU AND TAILORING ATELIERS

THE FLOU AND TAILORING
ATELIERS

Haute Couture creations require the talents of the head seamstresses and their experienced teams. Beneath their agile fingers, Karl Lagerfeld’s detailed sketches come to life. It starts with a cotton toile, the first interpretation of a design that materializes a silhouette. After several fittings in the presence of Karl Lagerfeld, 60 or 70 looks of each Haute Couture collection are then created in chosen materials, embroidered, pleated, embellished with feathers, braided, and adorned with jewel-like buttons.

Whether cut in “flou”, ethereal fabrics destined for dresses and blouses, or other, more tailored textiles like the tweeds so dear to Gabrielle Chanel, each of the creations requires meticulous execution. Under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld and the Studio, the “flou” atelier thus enters into a savvy dialogue with the “tailoring” atelier, which is specialized in making structured pieces with complex cuts like the CHANEL suit.

Haute Couture creations require the talents of the head seamstresses and their experienced teams. Beneath their agile fingers, Karl Lagerfeld’s detailed sketches come to life. It starts with a cotton toile, the first interpretation of a design that materializes a silhouette. After several fittings in the presence of Karl Lagerfeld, 60 or 70 looks of each Haute Couture collection are then created in chosen materials, embroidered, pleated, embellished with feathers, braided, and adorned with jewel-like buttons. Whether cut in “flou”, ethereal fabrics destined for dresses and blouses, or other, more tailored textiles like the tweeds so dear to Gabrielle Chanel, each of the creations requires meticulous execution. Under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld and the Studio, the “flou” atelier thus enters into a savvy dialogue with the “tailoring” atelier, which is specialized in making structured pieces with complex cuts like the CHANEL suit.

THE MAISONS D'ART

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THE WORK OF THE MAISONS D’ART ON
THE BRIDAL GOWN

THE WORK OF THE MAISONS
D’ART ON THE BRIDAL GOWN

Starting from a sample approved by Karl Lagerfeld, olive leaves and braided trim made of rocaille beading in shades of sea green are embroidered by hand. The leaves are then assembled into olive branches with the help of a needle. These embroideries and braiding produced by atelier Montex will embellish the jacket, directly inspired by the attire worn by members of the "Académie Française" at the Institut de France, the dress and its mini-skirt.

The ensemble is then accessorized with a fascinator created by Maison Michel in green wool embroidered by atelier Montex and veiled in sequined tulle. Matching low boots by Massaro, in almond green leather embroidered by atelier Montex, finish the look.

Starting from a sample approved by Karl Lagerfeld, olive leaves and braided trim made of rocaille beading in shades of sea green are embroidered by hand. The leaves are then assembled into olive branches with the help of a needle. These embroideries and braiding produced by atelier Montex will embellish the jacket, directly inspired by the attire worn by members of the "Académie Française" at the Institut de France, the dress and its mini-skirt.

The ensemble is then accessorized with a fascinator created by Maison Michel in green wool embroidered by atelier Montex and veiled in sequined tulle. Matching low boots by Massaro, in almond green leather embroidered by atelier Montex, finish the look.

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FEATHER HEADPIECE

Velvet headpieces by Maison Michel coordinated with the looks in the collection. Embellished with plumes by the workshops at Lemarié, these accessoires enhanced the Haute Couture allure with a finishing touch.

Velvet headpieces by Maison Michel coordinated with the looks in the collection. Embellished with plumes by the workshops at Lemarié, these accessoires enhanced the Haute Couture allure with a finishing touch.

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MÉTIERS D’ART AND HAUTE COUTURE

MÉTIERS D’ART AND
HAUTE COUTURE

With gestures, techniques and inspirations that are constantly renewed, the CHANEL Métiers d'art houses bring together creativity and uncompromising standards. This galaxy counts a number of ateliers with exceptional know-how, among them the feather-working specialist Lemarié, the shoemaker Massaro, the embroiderers Maison Lesage and Montex, the milliner and hatmaker Maison Michel, the glove-maker Causse and the pleating specialist Lognon.

From the creation of tweeds, laces and silks to feather-working, flower-making and embroidery or the art of accessorizing with gloves and jewelry, Haute Couture celebrates the virtuosity of these remarkable artisans.

With gestures, techniques and inspirations that are constantly renewed, the CHANEL Métiers d’art houses bring together uncompromising standards and excellence. This galaxy counts a number of ateliers with exceptional know-how, among them the feather-working and flower specialist Lemarié, the shoemaker Massaro, the embroiderers Maison Lesage and Montex, the milliner and hatmaker Maison Michel, the glove-maker Causse and the pleating specialist Lognon.

From the creation of tweeds, laces and silks to feather-working, flower-making and embroidery or the art of accessorizing with hats, gloves and jewelry, Haute Couture celebrates the virtuosity of these remarkable artisans.

Alta Costura Otoño-Invierno 2018/19

ALTA COSTURA
OTOÑO-INVIERNO 2018/19

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