Contemporary embroidery studio based in Paris, Maison Montex designs exclusive motifs and new creations every seasons that enhance the House Métiers d’art collections. With its thousands of sequins, beads, threads, multicolored crystals, and other embellishments, Maison Montex has forged its own distinctive expertise, drawing on the knowledge of an embroiderer from the Lorraine—the cradle of embroidery in France thereby perpetuating the secrets of the Lunéville craft. Thanks to research and experimentation, historic skills like crochet, embroidery on a Cornely machine, and needlework are being transcended by new techniques such lace embroidery on newsprint and 3D effects.
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The Barrie knitwear mill in the small town of Hawick, Scotland, joined CHANEL in 2012, twenty-five years after completing its first orders for the company. Their shared creative vision has brought the ancient tradition of the finest cashmere woven in the Scottish borders to CHANEL's iconic two-tone cardigan.
The Maison Barrie's soft-hued palette offers a range of exclusive colors for the Métiers d'art collections. Its spools in various sizes give an exceptional quality of yarn, while a production method unchanged since the early twentieth century, requiring painstaking accuracy and dexterity, makes the cashmere soft yet strong, giving a knit of outstanding quality. A highly qualified workforce with a skillset that is now rare makes Barrie cashmere knits a true luxury.
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The buttons and jewelry specialists Maison Desrues create unusual bespoke pieces to designs by Karl Lagerfeld, from cuff bracelets and fingerless gloves set with stones to beads on long necklaces or stitched by the hundred on every inch of a garment. Desrues produces some four thousand buttons a day to adorn CHANEL designs. The craftsmen also cast, sculpt, dye, carve, enamel, and polish stones and settings from Gabrielle Chanel's own jewelry, giving a new lease of life in fresh designs for today's collections. To meet the demands of CHANEL's bespoke creations, the Maison Desrues has embraced new technologies including digital design and laser cutting. Yet the company still holds itself to the highest standards of craftsmanship.
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Maison Massaro, who produced the two-tone shoes designed by Gabrielle Chanel in 1957, joined the CHANEL Maisons d’art in 2002. The master bootmaker creates Karl Lagerfeld’s designs that enrich the stylistic vocabulary of CHANEL by constantly seeking out new shapes and materials. Transparent plastic pumps, jeweled sandals, gaiter boots, and beaded heels all point to Maison Massaro’s creativity and sheer mastery of its art. The Massaro studio offers expertise in a number of crafts demanding a high degree of technical skill, offering endless possibilities in terms of design.
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Lemarié, which began working with feathers in Paris in 1880 and expanded to produce artificial flowers in 1946, is now at the heart of Karl Lagerfeld’s designs and also works with many other fashion houses. Working with feathers and flowers offers an infinite range of potential textures and patterns and requires ingenuity and technical flair. It was Maison Lemarié that Gabrielle Chanel turned to when she first came up with her camellia design in the 1960s. The emblematic flower blooms anew each season in Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches.
Though expert in flowers and feathers, Lemarié excels in the subtle inlaying, cascades of flounces, pleats and sophisticated smocking in a range of shapes and textures, from organza to velvet, leather to tweed and and satin.
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© Olivier Saillant
The Elbphilharmonie concert hall standing on the bank of the river Elbe in the old port area of Hamburg, which has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the city’s new cultural landmark. It was designed by the Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron and symbolizes the past, the present, and the future. Built atop the original brick walls of a former cocoa warehouse, the glass structure has a roof in the shape of waves, rising to a height of 110 meters. This scale of the edifice echoes that of the ocean-going vessels berthed opposite in the port. Its strange silhouette stands out in this very horizontal city. The glass facade, made up partly of curved window panels, makes it look like a giant crystal set over the old buildings. This new building is the showcase venue for the Paris-Hamburg 2017/18 Métiers d’art show.
The Maison Lognon allies traditional craft skills and digital technology in its cutting-edge techniques. Its deft-fingered experts create elaborate interplays of volume in flat expanses of fabric in a highly demanding process that requires painstaking accuracy and detailed knowledge of the characteristics of each material. Perfect pleating takes unspoken coordination and perfect fingertip synchronisation from two pleaters working together.
Over the decades, Lognon has worked with a wide range of fabrics, from silk, crepe, tulle, and chiffon to organza, velvet and leather. It has developed its own specialist jargon: reclining, flat, hollow, round, accordion, Watteau, sunburst, and Fortuny are all types of pleating mastered by Lognon, shedding light on the history of technical innovations in fashion. The company's history is still being written, as Lognon works closely with the CHANEL Studio, since it joined CHANEL's Métiers d’art in 2013.
Founded in 1936, Maison Michel found a natural home in Paris’ fine craft tradition. Each season sees the launch of new designs by Priscilla Royer, who took over as artistic director in 2015.
Maison Michel complements and counterpoints Karl Lagerfeld’s collections with its hats, which regularly accessorize CHANEL looks. Boaters, half-veils, caps, and knit caps all offer a new twist on a wide range of classic headwear, in multiple variations interpreting the codes of the House. Above and beyond their sheer artistry, the Métiers d’art collections offer highly skilled creations that reflect an urge for constant innovation drawing on a long-standing, diverse craft tradition.
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