Presented in a garden under the glass roof of the Grand Palais, at the foot of a 38-meter-high replica Eiffel Tower, the new Haute Couture collection reinvents Parisian style. The tower, built for the 1889 Exposition Universelle as a symbol of the industrial age into which the world was heading, has become Paris’s most iconic monument.

Karl Lagerfeld chose this impressive decor to deliver his vision of graphic elegance based on silhouettes with clear lines, either long and tubular or flared into an A-line, cinched at the waist. Daywear combines precision design and rigorous cuts with sophisticated materials, notably tweed, mohair and wool. Tweed jackets are cropped and double breasted, or close-fitting like a long tunic, worn with dome or wraparound skirts, tube dresses, or jumpuits. In oversize coats, frock coats with fitted waists, and peplum jackets, a wintry palette of black, gray, navy blue, bordeaux, and green, subtle shading, and checked wools heighten the play of volume and proportion. For evening wear, these pure, precisely cut silhouettes are combined with precious materials, sometimes embellished with embroidery or feathers: chiffon, silk tulle, or a new double-faced satin bring out the beauty of the lines. Long, straight dresses, draped sheath dresses, little black dresses in sequined netting, dresses with pleated tulle underskirts, peplum bustiers, and sequined dresses feature cubist motifs. Feathers treated like fur add precious and colorful splashes to both day and evening wear.

Françoise-Claire Prodhon


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