Boy Chanel, Cruise 2011/12
Chair creation Annick Lestrohan, Société Honoré edition
This winter, Chanel settled in the heart of Courchevel. The boutique mixes neutral hues and flashes of colour. The sheen of navy-blue panels on the walls calls to mind the aesthetic of Karl Lagerfeld’s 2011/12 Cruise collection.
Until April 14th 2012
Esplanade "LE TREMPLIN"
Photos © Olivier Saillant
Chanel’s time would never have existed without the Parisian artistic brilliance in which Gabrielle Chanel lived.
Painters, musicians, poets, choreographers, photographers and filmmakers were all part of her life sharing the same creative spirit. Very early on, she understood the highly demanding nature of artists, their tenacity to give form to their thought and above all, to challenge time: to produce a body of work around one’s difference.
The five themes of this exhibition - Origin, Abstraction, Invisibility, Liberty and Imaginary - go deeply into the historical background of the values of CHANEL, striking a chord with the fundamentals of the life story of its creator.
Here, manuscripts, drawings, photographs, precious objects, rare documents, fashion designs, perfumes and jewelry come together to reveal a unique landscape made of secrets, sentiment and inventions: a cabinet of curiosities that would have had the shamelessness to open itself up and where art has nothing more to say than what exists in its close relationship to the objects revealed.
Thus, the works become a wise, sensitive and sometimes unexpected contemporary companion to the imaginary element within Gabrielle Chanel’s creations. From a cubist cut up to the construction of a garment, from a musical score to a perfume, from a poem to a piece of jewelry; all these are part of a complete, historical and cultural creation.
Together they constructed a story, transmitted messages, never ceased airing their points of view, exchanged their languages, strived for a new set of aesthetics, invented new freedoms, grasped, marked, designated and projected a future, to which they measured up, and became the irreversible signs of a unique historical and cultural experience that was missing in the world.
Preface of the book "Culture Chanel". Published for the exhibition in Beijing that was curated by Jean-Louis Froment, this trilingual edition in French, English and Chinese is available at the Éditions de La Martinière, Abrams and Artron.
Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc
A bewitching short-film created and directed by Karl Lagerfeld for the 2011/12 Cruise Collection, The Tale of a Fairy stars friends of House including Chanel ambassadress Anna Mouglalis, Amanda Harlech, and models Kristen McMenamy and Freja Beha. “It is a movie about an ill-advised use of money which begins with violence and ends with feeling,” explains Karl Lagerfeld. Below, Anna Mouglalis takes us behind the scenes…
Describe your character?
Anna Mouglalis: A scorned woman, living in her own bubble, melancholic, bored to death by everything surrounding her.
She is touched by grace after an encounter with a fairy – how does the encounter change her?
Anna Mouglalis: The fairy is the grace, the beauty, the Other… She gives my character the desire to open her eyes again, to see the love. My character becomes a completely new person.
How did direction from Karl differ from your experiences with other directors?
Anna Mouglalis: Even though Karl had pictured the whole story in his head before being on set, we discovered it as we were filming, improvising with Karl. He was creating the dialogue in a very playful way as we were going along. Filming with a big team usually makes the work harder but Karl made it feel like there was only us on set.
Paris-Bombay Métiers d'Art
Karl Lagerfeld names his latest collection Paris Bombay Métiers d'Art and speaks about 19th century India. "I like the idea of the Vice-King, that’s fun. That’s why I came out with Stella Tennant, because she looked very much like Lady Curzon, the famous Vice-Queen around 1900 who was a very beautiful woman. She is so English, but in the nice way, in the good image of England mixed with India."
Bombay, 1898. George Curzon, freshly appointed Viceroy of India, takes his place as the highest ranking official in British India. His wife, Mary Victoria Curzon, joins him as Vicereine. Her sophisticated beauty and style were to make a lasting impression that is still felt to this day.
Mary was an impassioned advocate of Indian culture and local fabrics. Her status gave her considerable influence in matters of style. She contributed to the design of a gold-embroidered gold-weave gown for Queen Alexandra of England, which was crafted in the same Chandni Chowk atelier in Delhi from which she supplied her own wardrobe.
This blend of English fashions and Indian inspiration was echoed in Mary’s lifestyle. She caused a sensation with the peacock dress she wore for King Edward VII’s coronation in 1903, a gold-stitched gown embroidered with the feathers of the famed Indian bird.
Lady Curzon fuelled the renown of Indian artisans by championing their skill and craftsmanship. She helped promote producers of fine fabrics by wearing Indian cloth in her own dress. She advised silk weavers and embroiderers, encouraging them to use motifs and weaves that reflected fashionable trends.
Painting by William Logsdail, "Mary Victoria Leiter, Marchioness Curzon in her Peacock Gown" (1909), photography by John Hammond © Bridgeman Art Library, Paris 2011