"The 50s - Fashion in France, 1947-1957" exhibition at Palais Galliera

The remarkable pieces making up this exhibition – some 100 garments and accessories – retrace the evolution of the female form through the decade 1947–1957. Of course, it would be impossible to examine this decisive post-war period without mentioning Gabrielle Chanel and her dramatically innovative line of 1954 with its simple, straight suits.
This exhibition showcases sophisticated Haute Couture creations as well as the experimental Ready-to-Wear pieces that left their mark on the 1950s. This was Haute Couture's golden age, when Paris regained its title of the world's fashion capital. In addition to its selection of garments and accessories, the exhibition also features graphic documents, magazines, photographs, archive documents and videos.

On display until November 2, 2014
Palais Galliera - Musée de la mode de la ville de Paris
10, avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 75016 Paris

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1913: The Normandy coast with its expansive gray-blue skies and beaches still resembled the representations depicted by Eugène Boudin and the Impressionists at the turn of the 19th century... There was no swimming, or very little at most... Visitors splashed about or baited for shrimp, and the more elegant among them were seated under their parasols or withdrew into their canvas sun tents, wearing the same restrictive outfits on the sand as they wore in town. All of them were still unaware that a revolution was underway...

1913 was the year when Coco Chanel chose to open her first fashion boutique on rue Gontaut-Biron in Deauville.

This young woman, who successfully opened her first hat store in 1910 called "Chanel Modes" located at 21 rue Cambon in Paris, had established a formidable reputation and had already won over the most elite socialites of the time. However, it was in Deauville where she was the first to invent a sporty sense of style that reflected a changing society, a style that would forever alter the course of women's history.

Here at this chic resort destination she sold her wide-brimmed hats that were simply decorated with a single feather or ribbon. Yet most importantly, she offered wealthy clients open-air apparel that she displayed along Deauville’s famous boardwalk. The selection notably included the fisherman-inspired striped jersey sweater: yet again, she was able to reinvent a masculine garment and transform a classic work wear item into something comfortable for women who were ever so ready to be liberated from the heavy, corseted silhouette imposed by the “Belle Epoque”. Other outfits followed that embodied casual chic and successfully put everything else out of fashion: striped shirts, sailor pants, and beach pajamas that she accessorized with pearls and camellias loosely stitched to the belt or collar lapel. In Deauville, Gabrielle's boldness paired with the elegance of Adrienne (her young aunt) and her sister Antoinette (both dressed by Chanel) was as surprising as it was seductive. Gabrielle Chanel breathed new life and fresh air into fashion, fully embracing the spirit of the times, which the Avant-gardists were also doing at the same time in other creative fields such as painting, sculpture, literature, poetry, and music.

Françoise Claire Prodhon

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