© Jesper Haynes


© Jesper Haynes

Wednesday, January 24, 2018


At the heart of a verdant landscape, beneath the nef of the Grand Palais, CHANEL presents its Spring-Summer 2018 Haute Couture collection. Guests discover the poetic and modern opus in a leafy grove set that encompasses a fountain and an alcove of wooden plaits where roses, ivy and jasmin intertwine. Throughout the 68 looks, Karl Lagerfeld combines all of the ateliers know-how which exhilarates the lightness of tulles, silks, chiffons and organzas whether they be pleated, embroidered with sequins, beads, stones or strass. The models walk the show with floral hat-veils and plexiglass heeled low-boots in tweed.

This season, soft toned and powder tinted tweed suits are cut straight or slightly trapeze with a relaxed collar and rounded shoulders while skirts open unto vivid shades of satin. Sometimes the suit transforms into a coat-dress, at times into a trompe l'oeil styled dress, occasionally into a long tunic dress or as flared jackets, worn with skirts or French-style breeches.

Evening gowns alternate between slender shapes and airy volumes, subtle superimpositions and transparencies. The bustier mini-dress, which is entirely embroidered and covered with a stone studded and beaded tulle. The bottom of a long duchess satin dress is puffed with tulle, the painted flowers that ornate it, dancing about a light skirt. Anemones, buttercups, carnations and bouquets of camellia bloom beneath layers of embroideries. Spring inspires this rich palette of colors that range from light tints (white, pink, tender green, orange, grey and gentle taupe), brighter hues (vivid coral and fuchsia, electric blue, mint-green), to deeper tones (black and ink).

Françoise-Claire Prodhon


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