CHANEL NEWS

across-space-and-time-the-cruise-collection

ACROSS SPACE AND TIME:
THE CRUISE COLLECTION

In 1919 a small mid-season collection proposed by Coco for her clients vacationing in sunny climes gets a mention in American Vogue. The acceleration of cultural and social change sees the emergence of a new, independent woman who drives, and practices sports, while travel on luxury liners becomes fashionable among high society. The sportswear category takes off, with Gabrielle a key influencer.

In her boutique in Biarritz she proposes a sober, elegant wardrobe (think baggy, sailor-style pants, beach pajamas, and open-neck shirts) aimed at women familiar with the resort and yachting lifestyle of the era’s fashionable resorts, with as their playground the Basque Country, the Riviera and the Lido. Her designs, which coincide with the democratization of fashion and advances in travel that took off during the 1930s, are also cited in L’Officiel de la Mode in 1936: ’’A comprehensive mid-season collection… rich in suits and evening gowns.” The Cruise spirit is born, with Gabrielle its pioneer. Outmoded, the collection winds down in the 1950s but is resurrected by Karl Lagerfeld soon after his arrival at Chanel in 1983. Presented in late spring, on the fringes of the ready-to-wear collection, the silhouettes herald the arrival of summer.

The collection’s success sees the introduction of an annual show in the year 2000, a concept that slowly filters through to the rest of the fashion industry. Chanel sportswear, having evolved into more elegant lines, today addresses a global clientele on the lookout for newness, with fresh pieces introduced by the Maison roughly every two months. Refined, light and colorful, these summery silhouettes - geared to the day, cocktail-hour or evening - are especially suited to the climates of countries in South America, the Middle East and South-East Asia.

Blending together the traditions of a wardrobe and the modernity of a cosmopolitan style, the Cruise collection is about traveling. Each stop is for Karl Lagerfeld the occasion to tour favorite Gabrielle Chanel's destinations and to envision those she would have love to discover.

Gabrielle Chanel and Roussy Sert on a boat - Circa 1935 © All Rights Reserved

the-cruise-collection-in-seoul

THE CRUISE COLLECTION IN SEOUL

The Cruise show will be held on May 4th 2015 at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza in the center of Seoul.

Following Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Venice, Saint-Tropez, Cap d’Antibes, Versailles, Singapour and Dubai, Chanel revives the Cruise spirit in the Korean capital.

hyeres-festival-fashion-winner-announced

HYÈRES FESTIVAL FASHION WINNER ANNOUNCED

Last night at the 30th International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères, the Fashion Jury exceptionally awarded not one, but two main prizes in the fashion category. German womenswear designer Annelie Schubert took the major prize - a grant of 15,000 euros, as well as a collaborative project with Chanel’s Métiers d’Art.

A graduate of Hamburg University of Applied Science and a former intern of Haider Ackermann’s, Schubert set out to explore ‘female expression” in her collection, working with sensual fabrics to create an elegant and layered look. “I thought it was going to be a difficult decision but finally when we met this morning it was quite unanimous: we liked Annelie’s use of colours, material and her sense of femininity,” said Fashion jury president Virginie Viard.

Dutch designer Weike Sinnige walked away with the bonus runner-up prize of 5000 euros, and she will also have the rarefied opportunity to collaborate with Lesage. “She is a real artist — she paints — and we felt that she would really benefit from an experience with Lesage,” Viard said of Sinnige, whose spirited collection, inspired by the kaleidoscope, played with perspective and colour.

Alice Cavanagh

Annelie Schubert womenswear collection / photo © Grégoire Alexandre

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