CHANEL NEWS

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François Kollar on the stairs of Chanel, 1937 / exhibition view, Alice Sidoli © Jeu de Paume, 2016

francois-kollar-exhibition-in-paris

François Kollar on the stairs of Chanel, 1937 / exhibition view, Alice Sidoli © Jeu de Paume, 2016

FRANÇOIS KOLLAR
EXHIBITION IN PARIS

The exhibition "A Working Eye", the first retrospective of Kollar's complete body of work in France, showcases a panorama of his art with over 130 shots taken in Europe and Africa from the 1930s to the 1960s. The Hungarian-born photographer was one of France's great twentieth-century masters of industrial reportage.

François Kollar started out in advertising photography, spending many years working with magazines such as "Harper's Bazaar", where he published over two hundred fashion shots and portraits in the years before 1946. Photographing models, advertising for main houses and leading figures in the world of fashion, including Gabrielle Chanel, led him to experiment with a range of modern techniques and try out highly original compositions, playing with backlighting, double exposure, superimposition, and solarisation, or reflections in a mirror, as in this instance with a model on the rue Cambon staircase.

The exhibition follows the photographer's career chronologically, starting with the earlier experimental works and moving on to his advertising and fashion work. His reportage photography on the changing world of work in the 1930s is at the heart of the retrospective, which closes with his industrial series shot in French West Africa and France in the 1950s and 1960s.

Jeu de Paume
1, Place de la Concorde, 75008 Paris
February 9th to May 22d, 2016

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© Julien Mignot

silver-tweed

© Julien Mignot

SILVER TWEED

This exclusive tweed of the Spring-Summer 2016 collection was inspired by the world of travel and flying.

It requires exceptionally meticulous work: on average, 200 metres of classic tweed are woven per day, as compared with only 7 metres for this one.

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*Mademoiselle Chanel quote from "The Allure of Chanel" by Paul Morand (Pushkin Press, 2013 p.52)

jersey

*Mademoiselle Chanel quote from "The Allure of Chanel" by Paul Morand (Pushkin Press, 2013 p.52)

JERSEY

"Jersey is the hardest fabric to work with, it’s a poor fabric; Lord, do I know it! I started out with it"* declared Gabrielle Chanel.

As early as 1913, she chose to work with jersey, a "modest" machine-knit fabric that had hitherto been used mainly for men's undergarments and sailors' T-shirts. Jersey soon became instrumental to her success. Just 3 years after her first designs, an American journalist commented that "Chanel is master of her art, and her art resides in jersey."

This knit fabric was generally held to be too flowing for close-fitting cuts, but Mademoiselle liked it: it was comfortable and fluid, perfect for her easy-to-wear models whose new approach to the female silhouette became a success.

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