Described as "the new CHANEL" by Karl Lagerfeld, the House’s Haute Couture tweed suit is pared down to the extreme. It appears crosshatched by braiding that dissolves into the fabric, embroidered into tweed and woven with iridescent thread. The boat neck falls, as ever, in a straight line on strong shoulders, but now with a slightly curved line that gives a very slender silhouette a rounded touch; an allusion to the geometric spirit of French gardens.
Flowers, one of the collection’s key themes, bloom in multiple shades and textures on Haute Couture silhouettes designed by Karl Lagerfeld. Constantly seeking innovation, the CHANEL’s Métiers d’art ateliers created hand-painted ceramic flowers that were then added to sequinned dresses.
Entirely black and playing with volumes, this look presents a geometric jacket with a folded leather collar, paired with a feather-embroidered skirt. With its clean, sharp lines, this squared jacket reveals all the precision and know-how of CHANEL’s tailoring ateliers, which specialise in creating structured pieces.
Entirely covered in thousands of petals, this Haute Couture look is composed of a peplum lace top and a long skirt embellished with a flounced quille. With its thin, embellished straps, the elongated, fitted bodice contrasts with the fullness of the flounces closer to the hem. The embroideries on tulle were done in crochet, with needles, or stitched using a Cornely machine; a close examination reveals constellations of flowers in gradations of rosewood, matte violet and opaline green, sometimes illuminated with minuscule sparkly paillettes.