Fall-Winter 2010/11 collection: Swiss hand-crafted skis, in compressed cherrywood, azure staining.
Seen through a thermal camera: colors are ranging from dark blue (minus 10°C) for the iceberg to red (above 37°C) for the models.
At the Grand Palais, Paris for the Fall-Winter 2010/11 Ready-to-Wear show
After the country-chic of its Spring-Summer collection, next winter Chanel is heading to the great north. The glass roof of the Grand Palais has been iced over by a set made of blocks of ice sculpted into icebergs, melting into a shallow pool of fjord-blue water covering the floor. The show started with a hilarious prologue with a pack of male and female yetis calmly stalking the runway in hooded jumpsuits in fake fur. Karl Lagerfeld's inspirations led him through climate change and erratic weather, to thoughts of optimism at the end of the financial crisis. With the desire to revisit the icons of the House's Ready-to-Wear with humour, fantasy and modernity, Karl Lagerfeld has created a luxurious, desirable and wearable collection.
Fur is omnipresent, but this breed of fur is baptised "fantasy fur" by Karl (a more elegant term than "fake" or "synthetic"). Trimming the bottom of jackets and long white coats that recall a Robert Ryman painting, fur provides the finishing touch to white "twilight" dresses that glisten with the light of a snow-capped peak when night begins to fall. Chanel's emblematic tweed is knitted with fur, creating stunning effects that evoke rock crystals, moss, the down of a bird in winter, or the soft fur of a polar bear.
An impressive coat in knit and fur is sculpted into the shape of a chocolate bar. Suit jackets are embroidered with pins of sparkling crystals, and a cherry-red dress is adorned with "stalactite" fringes. The collection sits above the knee, and the silhouette is strong but voluminous, thanks to the protective effect of fur. Furry boots with icy heels and short white boots with their sensible transparent boot-cover bring the idea of après-ski to the city itself. Irresistible straight trousers in fantasy fur bring an androgynous "je-ne-sais-quoi" to such an otherwise feminine silhouette. The collection leaves us with an enchanting array of metaphors inspired by an audacious, ultra-contemporary Snow Queen. She wears ice cubes as minaudières, frosted snowflakes as shining plastron necklaces, and paradoxically lights up the dark nights with her immaculate dresses in pure white tulle, knit and lace, with snowflake embroidery and dream-like trains, to be worn throughout the long polar nights that will never see the sun rise.
Fall-Winter 2010/11 Ready-to-Wear
Studio 7L, Paris
Fall-Winter 2010/11 Ready-to-Wear, Grand Palais, Paris
Between Fragrance, Beauty, Fashion and Accessories, the story of Vanessa Paradis and the House of Chanel continues. Karl Lagerfeld has been won over by this well-rounded artist; Vanessa Paradis moves with ease from actress, to singer, to composer. The artist and the designer have enjoyed a long friendship, and benefitted from numerous collaborations, beginning in 2004 with the "Cambon" leather goods ad campaign, followed by "New Mademoiselle" in 2005. Most recently, Vanessa Paradis brought her musical talents to the Cabaret Chanel Club, during the "Paris-Shanghai" show in December 2009.
In a new campaign coming this May, Vanessa Paradis, ambassadress for Chanel Fashion, will be the face of the Coco Cocoon. Karl Lagerfeld has photographed the actress-singer in his campaign for the leather goods line, which has been enriched with several new designs this spring. The campaign will feature images that highlight the actress’ style, characterized by her blend of subtle audaciousness and fragility.
Diane Kruger and Sarah Jessica Parker in Chanel Haute Couture
At the end of the 1920’s, Gabrielle Chanel had a love affair with the Duke of Westminster, the richest man in England. Sitting on the table of her apartment are three vermeil boxes given to Gabrielle Chanel by the Duke.The metal which adorns them is less precious than the one concealed inside: a gold interior. It was thanks to the Duke of Westminster that Coco Chanel discovered this characteristic of luxury which she made her own: something which remains hidden, which exists only for oneself. This notion of luxury found an immediate echo in the fashion world because, according to Coco Chanel: ‘Elegance comes from being as beautiful inside as outside’.
Role play: Karl Lagerfeld photographed the model Iris dressed up as iconic fashion artistic directors for the US edition of Harper's Bazaar
March 2010 issue