Paris-Hamburg 2017/18 Métiers d'art
In the ateliers
See the Film
Each year, Karl Lagerfeld dedicates a collection to the CHANEL Maisons d'art.
"It's made in an artisan way, in the very best sense of that word, because in artisan there is 'art'. The art of doing things well, an applied art."
Combining traditional know-how skills with a sense of innovation, the artisans of the atelier montex turn Karl Lagerfeld's sketches into three-dimensional embroideries and use the crochet de Lunéville technique and the hand-guided Cornely machine to create motifs.
Using patterns made by the CHANEL ateliers, the embroiderers draw the designs on tracing paper before transferring them onto the fabric. Strips of Rhodoid are stitched on one by one to compose geometric motifs that bring out the asymmetrical lines of the evening dresses.
Podcast with Aska Yamashita
Aska Yamashita, artistic director of the embroidery specialist atelier montex, talks about the links between the CHANEL Metiers d’art and the CHANEL studio that enrich each collection.
Tweed, a woolen fabric borrowed from menswear by Mademoiselle Chanel, has become an essential part of the CHANEL style. The different kinds of thread that make up this fabric give it unique, irregular appearance. Karl Lagerfeld creates audacious, reference-packed designs in exclusive tweeds by Lesage, bold juxtapositions of materials and motifs.
The tweeds in the 2017/18 Métiers d'art collection are made of wool interwoven with velvet ribbon and lurex thread. Their checked motifs echo the network of canals and bridges in the city of Hamburg, where the collection was presented. Hues ranging from orange to brown with hints of blue evoke the colorful freight containers stacked on the city's docks.
Podcast with Hubert Barrère
Hubert Barrère, the artistic director of the embroideries atelier Lesage founded in 1958, discusses how the Maison’s savoir faire continues to evolve with innovative techniques.
The know-how of the shoemaker Massaro
The artisans at Massaro make CHANEL shoes to the highest standards of production. Last makers, clickers, closers and finishers work together in the shoemaker's ateliers to create CHANEL footwear.
The Paris-Hamburg brogues in grosgrain or patent leather have a spool heel, giving a more feminine look to the classic man's shoe. As part of the collective dance between the know-how of each of the Maisons d'art, Maison Desrues adorns the shoes of the collection with a bow-shaped beaded brooch.
Podcast with Jean-Étienne Prach
Massaro’s artistic director Jean-Étienne Prach talks about the collective work of the Maisons d’art in the creation of unique designs imagined by the CHANEL studio.
The work of Maison Lemarié, feather and flower maker in Paris since 1880, is at the heart of Karl Lagerfeld's designs. The camellia is revisited every season within the flower atelier. Feather work, which requires meticulous craftsmanship, technical skill and ingenuity, offers infinite variations of textures and motifs. The feathers are tinted, refined, curled or gathered to bring volume to the CHANEL dresses and accessories.
For the 2017/18 Métiers d'art collection, hand-painted white feathers were embroidered onto the evening gowns, with contrasting ink suggesting the horizontal stripes of a sailor top.
Podcast with Christelle Kocher
Lemarié’s artistic director Christelle Kocher discusses the creative dialogue between the CHANEL Metiers d’art and the CHANEL studio.
Desrues draws on its age-old heritage to develop its techniques, while making use of cutting-edge innovations. Its artisans cast, carve, gild and polish the precious jewels and buttons for CHANEL's collections.
Meticulously chased, the designs of Desrues come in colors and motifs that evoke the collection's maritime theme.
In Maison Michel
In a dialogue with the collections, Maison Michel creates the hats that accessorize the silhouettes. Boaters, veiled fascinators, caps and beanies revisit the hat repertory in a myriad of variations on the CHANEL style. The milliner keeps more than three thousand oval hat blocks, sculpted from soft limewood to answer Karl Lagerfeld's creativity.
The tweed and wool caps made in the Maison Michel ateliers, embroidered with braiding by Lesage or adorned with chased brooches by Desrues, are collective works of craftsmanship.
Podcast with Priscilla Royer
Maison Michel’s artistic director Priscilla Royer explains how their atelier became a creative lab by collaborating with the CHANEL studio.
See the Film
In the sixth chapter of the CHANEL 3.55 podcast, Joana Preiss meets the artistic directors of the CHANEL Métiers d’art ateliers to uncover their exceptional savoir faire skills and how they collaborate with Karl Lagerfeld’s studio.