Photos by Anne Combaz
For the Chanel Fall-Winter 2015/16 Haute Couture collection, Karl Lagerfeld reinvents the classic Chanel suit. “The idea was to take the most iconic jacket from the 20th century and turn it into a 21st century version, which technically was unimaginable in the period when it was created," explains the designer.
In place of fabric and stitches, the jacket’s structure is produced using 3D printing, in one piece, with a supple texture. Serving as a canvas for the “petites mains” of the Chanel ateliers, the jacket’s openwork “cage” of padded quilting is then embellished with sequin embroidery and braiding.
The sketch is initially interpreted in the form of a toile and reproduced in the fabrics chosen by the Studio.
Using a sample, the design is created first on tracing paper according to the pattern provided by the House ateliers.
The lace and the silk tulle are positioned onto an embroidery frame and then the embroidery is done using the Luneville technique: this technique is executed on the underside of the fabric on an embroidery frame with one hand holding the hook and the other beneath the frame moving the tubes forward.
The pieces completed by the Lesage ateliers are sent to the Chanel ateliers so the seamstresses can start the assembling of the model.
The dress and the underslip are then adjusted on a mannequin to check that the proportions and silhouette as imagined by Karl Lagerfeld are respected.