© Yu Cong
In a single design, an intricate juxtaposition of textures and contrasts required the expert contribution of several CHANEL’s Métiers d’art. This sculptural tunic dress embroidered with thousands of beads and sequins extends into a long skirt with floaty pleats. The black tulle, handmade by Maison Lognon, was slightly gathered to bring out its relief and accordion-pleated every five millimeters over a length of more than five meters. The material was given an even richer look by Maison Lemarié with the interlacing of gold thread through its weave. The centerpiece of the dress, embroidered on organza, a superposition of rhinestone and beads creating the illusion of a tweed motif, was created by Maison Lesage. By coordinating each stage of production though to assembly, CHANEL’s Ready-to-Wear ateliers bring the final design to life.
First created by Mademoiselle Chanel in 1955, the 2.55, with its quilted, body and practical yet bijou, gold chain, is an eternal symbol of CHANEL's spirit. Karl Lagerfeld's more recent iteration, the classic handbag, offered a subtle reinterpretation of the original, as the Artistic Director reworked the codes, like the CC clasp and strap, in the playful fashion he did best. This season, both of these iconic styles have both been updated in embossed and brilliant metallic leathers.
The link between the history of the Métiers d’art with CHANEL is vital — ever since Gabrielle Chanel’s iconic two-tone shoes in the 1950s. For the latest Métiers d’art collection, Massaro fashioned a cast of inspiring footwear including golden boots, signature color of the collection.
Slipped over a transparent dress in iridescent black chiffon, the matching crop top and mini skirt are embroidered with multicoloured geometric motifs shot through with gold. Sewn into the organza, 2,000 bugle beads, 4,000 sequins, 2,000 tubes and 20 cabochons in Plexiglas made by Maison Goossens form a composition like an abstract painting. These hand-embroidered motifs by Maison Lesage conjuring up ancient Egyptian bas-reliefs extend to the pyramid minaudière, to create a harmonious ensemble.
Working with Karl Lagerfeld's illustrations, the skilled bootmakers at Massaro fashioned four new styles for the Paris - New York Métiers d'art collection: a flat, closed-toe, gold leather sandal exudes elegant simplicity while black and two-tone gold pumps are much more ornate; their heels bejewelled by fellow Métiers d'art Maisons, Goossens and Desrues. The Massaro craftsmen also made two-tone gold boots with black patent leather toes, and over-the-knee leather boots cast in solid gold or a metallic graffiti with New York and ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs.
© Pari Dukovic
Modelled from an original piece of CHANEL Art Deco jewellery, dating from the 1920s, this dazzling necklace boasts 1500 individual rhinestones that have been artfully assembled into a graphic silhouette that recalls the night-lit, Manhattan skyline. Brimming with colours that wink day and night, the rhinestones are soldered on one-by-one, ensuring the collar moulds to the wearer like a second skin.
This look sculpts the figure like the robe of an ancient Egyptian goddess, showcasing the fine craftsmanship of the embroidery house Montex. A shimmering embroidered dress is worn over a long tube dress in white jersey to bring out its transparency. Chains of gold beads were delicately sewn onto tulle to form a mesh, using a Cornély, a hand-operated machine designed in the 19th century. Needle-embroidered braids and interlaced triangles of glass cubes and metal tubes form geometric reliefs on the yoke collar, waist and at the bottom of the dress, putting the finishing touches to this look.