*Mademoiselle Chanel quote from "The Allure of Chanel" by Paul Morand (Pushkin Press, 2013 p.52)
"Jersey is the hardest fabric to work with, it’s a poor fabric; Lord, do I know it! I started out with it"* declared Gabrielle Chanel.
As early as 1913, she chose to work with jersey, a "modest" machine-knit fabric that had hitherto been used mainly for men's undergarments and sailors' T-shirts. Jersey soon became instrumental to her success. Just 3 years after her first designs, an American journalist commented that "Chanel is master of her art, and her art resides in jersey."
This knit fabric was generally held to be too flowing for close-fitting cuts, but Mademoiselle liked it: it was comfortable and fluid, perfect for her easy-to-wear models whose new approach to the female silhouette became a success.