© Olivier Saillant
For the Fall-Winter 2017/18 Ready-to-Wear show, Chanel transformed the Grand Palais into the No. 5 Launch Pad, with its guests seated at the foot of a 35-meter-high rocket. A fitting decor for a dreamily modern collection, with which Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel take us on a journey into space.
A stellar inspiration for the 90 models, who paraded wearing sparkly boots and headbands embroidered with beads and crystals. The season’s palette in black, white, gray and silver, with touches of red, beige and pink, is illuminated with electric blue or purple and enhanced with myriad sequins, iridescent thread, crystal embroidery and metallic or bead braiding.
The reinvented tweed suit’s trompe l’oeil effect makes square-shouldered jackets look as if they’re worn under a vest. The sharply visual silhouette plays with layering: skirts, dresses and tweed coats worn with matching bermuda shorts, and loose coats and peacoats paired with cuffed pants in double crepe. Checks, houndstooth, multicolored tweed: the city style get the astronaut look, with silver leather fingerless gloves, padded silver or metallic pink stoles and jackets and dresses sporting round upright collars looking ready to be fitted with a space helmet.
For evening, the motifs echo the night sky: black and white chiffon with astronaut, planet and constellation prints, and eclipse prints on black satin dresses and knitwear. Embroidered beads and sequins sparkle like stars on a midnight blue tweed jacket or tulle dress. CHANEL's GABRIELLE bag gets into the spirit of the collection in a metallic leather version, while the Boy bag features a shiny chevron motif, and minaudières are shaped like rockets or planets. The climax of this imaginary voyage: the launch of the rocket before the guests’ very eyes-like an invitation to see things from a higher perspective.
Françoise Claire Prodhon