© Olivier Saillant
© Olivier Saillant
Wednesday, December 13, 2017
MÉTIERS D'ART COLLECTION
Hamburg is where Karl Lagerfeld chose to present the Métiers d'art collection, at the new Elbphilharmonie designed by the architects Herzog & de Meuron. The collection pays tribute to the craftsmanship of the embroidery, feather-making, millinery and bootmaking workshops.
This new opus is a homage to the city, evoking the futuristic architecture of the concert hall, the atmosphere of the port with its colorful shipping containers, the brick warehouses in the docks, the seamen's clothing. Pea coats, double-buttoned sailor's trousers, tweed suits with sailor collars and neckerchiefs, heavy cable-knit sweater and mini dresses, long fitted coats: Karl Lagerfeld renews the CHANEL codes with a masculine-feminine slant underscored by the simple, rigorous look of this line in a palette of black, navy, gray, and beige with touches of red, brick and gold. Daywear brings tweeds woven by Maison Lesage, wool, flannel, jersey, silk crepe and chiffon. Eveningwear is elegant and precious: a suit embroidered with tiles of mother-of-pearl in the Montex studio, sequined sheath dresses with sailor collars, sailor's trousers in black and gold tweed or in black satin, asymmetrical dresses in iridescent crepe on tulle embroidered with multicolored sequins, a black crepe tuxedo. A bustier mini dress revisits the iconic stripy sailor's top, embroidered all over with feathers handpainted in the Lemarié ateliers, or lengthened with a feather-fringed satin skirt.
Every outfit is paired either with heeled brogues worn sometimes with long knitted socks, or with ankle-strap pumps designed by boot- and shoemaker Massaro. Maison Michel’s sailor’s cap comes in every fabric of the collection. Seabags, clutch bags inspired by shipping containers, and tweed bags in the colors of the city accessorize the silhouettes, for a bold and modern look.