Venice: setting for the Cruise 2009/10 fashion show
A touch of Baroque Electro to the 2009/10 Cruise collection show in Venice: violin, cello and minimalist electro
SomethingALaMode, or SALM for its fans, set the musical scene for the show with a performance worthy of a classical orchestra and a top class DJ. The two worlds are not the slightest bit contradictory for Thomas Roussel and Yannick Grandjean who, after devoting their days to their strict classical training, turned into dedicated clubbers at night. The result of their encounter is a debut album called 'électro-cordes' which expertly mixes the clanging violins of "RondoParisiano", as baroque as they come (featuring Karl Lagerfeld), and the heady bubbles of "5 AM".
Moscow was at its best to welcome us two week ago. Blue sky, bright sunshine, comrades standing to attention; Leonid made sure I avoided revolutionary sunstroke by lending me his cap.
An original Moscow, the meeting of Chanel and Russia at the Maly Theatre, a gorgeous setting from Tsarist times transformed into a cinema for the showing of Karl Lagerfeld's film, "Coco 1913 – Chanel 1923", followed by a cabaret with Maria, Anabela, Irina, Sasha, Angelika, Tatyana, Natasha and Vlada; the letter A on the runway punctuated by the sound of Terem Quartet's giant balalaika.
Still with the Tsars, the next day began with a visit to Red Square and a tour round St. Basil's Cathedral, whose onion domes explode with psychedelic colour and decoration, leaving the imagination plenty of scope to dream as to their origin.
Everything changes at the Mayakovskaya subway station where we considered the art deco architecture and glamour icon mosaics in praise of work, sport and the strength of the people on a starry sky background, which must have influenced American cartoons and imagery of the thirties.
In the film "Coco 1913 – Chanel 1923", Grand Duke Dimitri thought nothing of Russian constructivism; he didn't know about the Bakhmetevsky bus garage, Moscow's modern art centre, whose facade would shock even Franz Ferdinand’s graphic artist.
At VDNK park, the Cosmos museum points up to the sky like a rocket on a launch pad; its array of low relief sculptures representing idols of the cosmos is reminiscent of Frankie Goes To Hollywood, the ZTT era.
Back to earth and there's absolutely no doubt that here we're in Eastern America, the beautiful Moscow girls have traded their sickles for false eyelashes, Russian techno music blares out over the airwaves, but the square is still Red; it's exhilarating!
After the show, guests headed to the PODIUM Concept Store, real moscovite fashion establishment. For one month Chanel created an ephemeral boutique highlighting the most emblematic pieces of the collection.
Backstage photographed by Emanuele Scorcelletti
Photos by Emanuele Scorcelletti
After presenting in Paris last December the “Paris Moscou” Métiers d’Art collection, Chanel chose the Maly Theater for an exclusive presentation in Russia on May 29th. An outstanding event since it was also Karl Lagerfeld’s first visit to Moscou.
Karl Lagerfeld reinterprets Russia's icons: a Soviet edition of the "2.55" handbag adorned with jewel symbols of Russian history and the traditional Matriochka as an enamel bracelet bag in the colors and with the icons of CHANEL
The Paris-Moscou collection: photographed at the Russian embassy in Paris shoot for Vogue Russia
Karl Lagerfeld filmed the ballet in the Haute Couture salon at 31 rue CambonKarl Lagerfeld has designed an exclusive costume for the 'The Dying Swan' as part of the English National Ballet's season of Ballets Russes at Sadler's Wells in London in June 2009.