© Neilson BARNARD / Getty Images
© Boby Allin
© Boby Allin
Train stations; exquisite settings that embrace memories as vivid as Marcel Proust’s madeleines; recollection realm of greetings and farewells by means of the daydreamer’s flânerie or impetuousness.
Arranged in a way that conjured up a sense of timelessness and marked the start of a new journey, the CHANEL Cruise collection dropped anchor at the Grand Palais in Paris — a Beaux-Arts destination beyond compare.
Virginie Viard’s ready-to-wear debut as Artistic Director of the House was gauged with just the colour soupçon to adorn CHANEL’s time-honoured monochromatic codes. Viard’s set carried out a range of iconic tweeds, mini-skirt suits, quilted handbags, wide leg trousers, flowery dresses with starchy, immaculate high collars, hair accessories and sparkly jewellery with the deliberateness that would have pleased her predecessors Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld.
Not just a mere garment parade, a CHANEL show is a tale, and this one, infused with all the sophistication and femininity the House is known for, was an enchanting railway poem.
The spectacle closed on a last clin d’oeil to legacy: a gracious black dress jazzed-up with chains, a platinum blonde mane highlighted white, and a determined facial expression. May the CHANEL spirit live on for many more voyages.
Ambassadors and friends of the House came together at the Grand Palais to discover the cruise 2019/20 collection presented in the timeless décor of a train station, the point of departure for a journey. After the show, guests shared their impressions about the new collection.
Knits run like rail tracks in the Cruise 2019/20 collection. Knitted vests with black and mocha stripes, sometimes embroidered with sequins, take the shape of gilets and are contrasted with trousers and shorts in white coated canvas. Left open or delicately tied with a satin bow, they create a comfortable and functional allure.
Silhouettes took on diaphanous hues, in blocks of pale mauve and sky blue and gradiations of violet, soft pink and aqua. Wide canvas trousers, tweed ensembles, poplin shirts tied with oversized bows, and ruffled chiffon dresses emerged in a palette of pastels, recalling impressionist paintings.
A minimalistic long evening dress in black linen etches a pure line and is edged with CHANEL’s statement chain, its effect reinforced by a high, white removable stiff shirt collar. Strict, geometrical and accessorised with a sequinned double-C brooch, this collar elongates the silhouette through the contrast of black and white.
Models walked along the platforms at the Grand Palais wearing pointed-toe pumps with small conic heels. In keeping with the spirit of CHANEL's iconic shoes, the signature two-toned pump was revisited in contrasting hues, adorned with a thin strap and a gold-tone clasp.