The House of CHANEL becomes a partner of the Deauville American Film Festival for its 45th edition which will be held between September 6th and 15th 2019.
Established in 1975, this festival is the biggest European festival dedicated to American cinema. Each year it welcomes the biggest actors while showcasing new talents.
Cinema – its most talented actresses and boldest directors – is intrinsically linked to the history of CHANEL and has been since its founder Gabrielle Chanel.
The House that dresses, bejewels and beautifies numerous celebrities in real life and on screen, makes its mark on cinema’s main red carpets and counts among its devotees the director Sofia Coppola and the actresses Keira Knightley, Kristen Stewart, Vanessa Paradis, Penélope Cruz, Margot Robbie, Rinko Kikuchi, Zhou Xun and Lily-Rose Depp.
“The love of books runs like a fil rouge throughout the House of CHANEL, its history underlined by a cultivated esprit, an appreciation for knowledge and a sentiment for the finesse of haute artistic expression. Mademoiselle Chanel’s revolutionary approach to fashion was nurtured by her love of elegant words and by her passion for the enthralling magic of poetry, which makes the imagination soar and vibrate, opening new landscapes of possibilities and exploration.
For her solo Haute Couture debut, Virginie Viard paid a touching yet breathtaking homage to the beating heart of Mademoiselle’s legacy, transforming the Grand Palais into a rendition of her private library, a blown-up, monumental replica of the one lining the walls in her Parisian apartment at 31 rue Cambon. Yet, despite the magnificence of the round-shaped decor, the atmosphere at the show felt welcoming, enveloping, immersive and soothing, as only the reading of a good book can be. And how Karl Lagerfeld would’ve loved it, his immense appetite for knowledge barely placated by the thousands of tomes lovingly cocooned in his own staggering bibliothèque.
In the CHANEL lineage of book lovers, Viard has now inscribed her name, as if reconnecting the dots of a genealogy of artistic talents.
Such splendid, metaphorical set felt like the perfect shrine for the Haute Couture collection, whose calm purity of lines resonated with the echo of the clarity of thought gracing good writers and gifted raconteurs. Looks had the fluidity and ease of a sophisticated turn of phrase, outlined with a sensuous 1930s allure yet filtered through a modern attitude, further highlighted by the models’ relaxed, leisurely pace — hands thrust into pockets, as if taking their time to wander in the meditative space.
The sharp, exacting eye of Coco Chanel and her flair for elegant seduction seemed to naturally translate into the fluid, slender silhouettes favoured by Viard, the finesse of the savoir-faire of the Haute Couture ateliers and CHANEL’s Métiers d’art only enhancing the nonchalant perfection of their allure. They exuded an appealing sense of cool and modernity, very much aligned with Mademoiselle’s penchant for sophisticated ease, its timeless appeal still so relevant today.
How beautiful and chic and comfortable the girls looked in their slender floor-sweeping tweed coatdresses, soft and lithe as robes; in the high-waisted pants paired with abbreviated or slim-fitted versions of the signature CHANEL jacket; in the seductive evening dresses, concocted by the incomparable maîtrise of the flou ateliers. Walking with calm grace wearing flats, they were the epitome of modern, effortless, luxurious chic. Mademoiselle, with her formidable, implacable eye, would have certainly approved.”
The CHANEL Haute Couture ateliers use a variety of exceptional techniques to build multiple types of pleats and folds. Monochromatic silhouettes feature a combination of tiered knife pleats, organ-pleat flounces and sunray pleats. Folding produces diaphanous reliefs and undulating volumes in an orangey chiffon negligee and in emerald green or fuchsia pink georgette sheath dresses.
Textured lacework is appliquéd on the full length of dresses using silver lamé thread in floral patterns, the metallic effect illuminating a fuchsia pink flounced design. Hand-painted flower petals on green tulle resemble delicately chased motifs, their contours enhanced by the lace.
Evening dresses showcase the savoir-faire of CHANEL Haute Couture, from the impeccable fall of the fabric to the precision of the details. Long black sheath dresses, draped velvet, organza and satin, adorned with a knotted bow or enhanced with a belt, extend into a cloud of feathers or a cascade of folds.
Closely fitted at the waist, tweed jackets take on a modern look: with their puffy shoulders and sleeves they resemble bomber jackets, reflecting the relaxed spirit of the collection. Dotted with diamond motifs or hazy zigzags, they feature buttons in the tones of vellum and other fine printing papers.